Saving Face

The fight against the damaging effects of pollution is as important as reversing the ravages of time, according to the beauty industry. And natural ingredients are the best defence.

While the beauty industry has been relentless in its attack against ageing by bombarding us with Botox, UV protections and the latest anti-ageing creams, it has now found a new war to wage, this time against another invisible aggressor - pollution.

Like UV rays, gravity and the natural ageing process, air pollutants damage the skin, leaving it looking dull, grey and anything but youthful. Ozone, a common air pollutant, is thought to be a particular problem: studies have shown it can deplete the amount of vitamin E (an important antioxidant) in the skin.

One of the pioneers in the field is Dr Howard Murad. With a thriving dermatology practice in Los Angeles - and some 50,000 patients - Murad was well placed to develop a line of specialist skincare products. Star of the show for city dwellers is his Environmental Shield line, which delivers the most powerful formulation of pure vitamin C (another key antioxidant) directly into the skin to repair and prevent free-radical damage resulting from environmental exposure. Lucy Whittaker, director of Paua Supplies, the company responsible for launching the brand in Hong Kong, uses a simple analogy to describe the process: 'When you cut an apple in half it turns brown as the cells oxidise. It's the same with our skin cells - they oxidise, age and die. Vitamin C is like putting lemon juice on an apple, it stops the oxidisation process and stops the cells from decaying.'

Murad has also devised a range of intensive, speciality facials. Available at the Elemis Day Spa in Central, his Environmental Shield Vitamin C Facial ($1,200) has become one of the spa's most popular treatments thanks to its instant skin-brightening results.

'Dr Murad's products contain vitamin C in the form of pomegranate extracts and goji berries that, weight for weight, are 500 times more concentrated in vitamin C than oranges,' says Whittaker. So why not just pop a pill? 'When you take a vitamin C supplement, only 1 per cent actually reaches your skin, so a topical application is necessary to get the benefits.'

Cross the harbour to the fung shui-inspired I-Spa at the InterContinental Hong Kong, and alongside ancient Oriental favourites you'll now find modern-day treatments for the modern-day pollution problem. Its Antioxidant Vitamin C Facial ($1,200) also utilises the power of vitamin C, but adds a spirulina masque, packed with vitamins, minerals and protein to boost nutrients and revive dull skin.

'When exposed to polluted environments, the skin cells can literally become suffocated, starving the skin of oxygen, which is necessary for the cells to regenerate,' says I-Spa director Tracy Lord. 'The effect on the skin is that the tone becomes dull and fine dehydration lines can become visible. In a city environment, it's vital to protect and treat the skin properly in order to maintain a healthy glow and prevent accelerated ageing.'

To extend the benefits of the facial, Lord recommends exfoliating twice weekly to remove dead skin cells and brighten the skin before applying the spirulina mask ($860) to boost the skin's nutrients.

When it comes to fighting the stresses of urban living, Australian brand Aesop, which opened its first Hong Kong store last year, harnesses the protective power of botanicals. Its Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant range, which includes two eye products and a toner, combines vitamins C and E with extracts of parsley seed, lavender stem and camomile to soothe, hydrate and calm skin stressed by external factors.

When choosing and applying skincare products, it's important to remember that our skin is subjected to ageing pollutants indoors as well as out.

'Air-conditioners propel oxidants into the environments in which we work, live, travel and sleep,' says Aesop's founding partner Suzanne Santos. 'Products containing high levels of scientifically validated antioxidants are the only constructive protection that can be built into cosmetics, and the quality and quantity must be carefully considered to perform this function effectively.'

Natio, another Australian brand, combines plant extracts with essential oils to deliver effective solutions to city dwellers. Its Antioxidant Face Moisturiser ($130 from Sasa) is a deeply moisturising plant-based cream with sweet almond and carrot oil that does double duty protecting skin from the environment with antioxidant vitamins A, C and E to help slow the ageing process.

Since the negative effects of pollution have been documented for some time, research began long before the products hit the shelves. Clarins first started developing its anti-pollution products in the late 1990s, and more recently took its anti-pollution campaigns directly to the male urbanite, creating a no-nonsense range to meet basic male needs. Its Total Wrinkle Control ($400) and Fatigue Fighter ($300) feature antioxidant botanicals in the form of horse chestnut, ginseng, linden and wheat to safeguard skin against the harmful effects of pollution.