Coral for kicks

Expert advice on watches and jewellery

Coral has been used in jewellery and ornaments for thousands of years - in Roman times children were given coral necklaces to bring luck, and the Chinese have used coral in carvings for centuries. It's become a popular feature in jewellery and looks ultra chic in its most organic form. Louis Vuitton featured a coral branch and whimsical charms on a necklace designed by Marc Jacobs, while designers have used coral motifs on clothing.

Coral is found in seawater between eight and 305 metres deep - the greater the depth, the more intense the colour. There are two main species of coral used to make jewellery: Corallium rubrum and Japonicus.

Corallium rubrum is known as Mediterranean coral. It's found off Italy, Greece, and northern Africa. Colours range from pale pink to bright and dark red. Japonicus, or Japanese coral, is found off Japan, Taiwan, Australia and Hawaii. Colours range from white and pale pink to cherry and dark red.

Coral taken directly from the sea resembles branches of a tree, with rugged lines and an uneven texture. Transforming coral into fine jewellery is a delicate process. Quality coral is free of fractures and blemishes, and has a smooth and shiny surface.

Mediterranean coral comes in small branches with a uniform colour. It usually appears in smaller pieces in the form of beads or smaller decorations. Japanese coral has thicker and bigger branches, making it suitable for bigger pieces.

The origin, colour and size of the coral are important factors in determining its value, says Ernesto Miraglia, director of Loffredo. Mediterranean corals have smaller branches and, therefore, bigger pieces command higher prices. This doesn't apply to Japanese coral, which naturally comes in bigger branches but has an uneven colour. Look for Japanese coral with a uniform colour - it's considered rarer and more valuable.

Buying tips

When it comes to buying coral jewellery, bear in mind the design and meticulous craftsman-ship involved. Most corals are fashioned into beads, cabochons and branches resembling their original shapes. Flowers and leaves are popular motifs. They're usually set in rose or yellow gold for warmer colour tones. Jewellers are now combining coral with amber, ivory, onyx and even diamonds in their collections.

In Hong Kong, most women buy coral for the design rather than its value. Coral remains an alternative to other precious stones, says Terry Chu Yin-yee, deputy director of Sotheby's China and Southeast Asia. Unlike diamonds or coloured stones, there are no international criteria in grading coral.

Buying from established brands or reputable jewellers is probably your best bet for quality. Fake coral can be made from glass, bamboo or plastic, and dyed to resemble natural coral. Miraglia says attention to the source, the brand, reputation of the retailer and the price are important indicators of the authenticity and quality of coral. 'You're not going to get real coral from the street market,' says Miraglia. 'Coral is expensive, so don't expect to spend little on it.'

Shopping list

de Grisogono

Shop 2062-2063, IFC Mall, Central, tel: 2522 8368

Dior Fine Jewellery

Shop G43-45, the Landmark, Central; tel: 2524 8277

Dior's Gwendoline rings are available in red or white coral.

Loffredo

Showroom at Suite 1314, Prince's Building, Central, tel: 2522 2507 (by appointment); or at Lane Crawford, IFC Mall, Central, tel: 2118 3388

Italian brand Loffredo specialises in coral jewellery and objets d'art.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Shop G15, G/F Prince's Building, Central, tel: 2522 9677

The Rose de Noel range has coral clips with floral motifs.