bodyType

customContents

entityId

printArticlePageQuery

filter

article

body

urlAlias

articleSectionsContent

articleSeoArticle

articleSourceHeaderArticle

contentSchemaRenderContent

contentSubHeadlineContent

contentHeadlineContent

mainImagePrintArticleArticle

authorBlockPrintArticleArticle

contentSponsorTagContent

articlePianoPaywallContent

scmpYoutubeContent

hooksTrackPageViewArticle

query printArticlePageQuery(
  $entityId: String!
  $customContents: [CustomContentInput]
  $bodyType: BodyFormatTypeEnum
) {
  article(filter: {entityId: $entityId}) {
    entityId
    body(customContents: $customContents, type: $bodyType) {
      json
    }
    urlAlias
    ...articleSectionsContent
    ...articleSeoArticle_3o8td4
    ...articleSourceHeaderArticle
    ...contentSchemaRenderContent
    ...contentSubHeadlineContent
    ...contentHeadlineContent
    ...mainImagePrintArticleArticle
    ...authorBlockPrintArticleArticle
    ...contentSponsorTagContent
    ...articlePianoPaywallContent
    ...scmpYoutubeContent
    ...hooksTrackPageViewArticle
    id
  }
}

fragment articlePianoPaywallContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...hooksPaywallPromiseContent
}

fragment articleSectionsContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  sections {
    value {
      ...helpersCheckIfNewsSectionInFirstIndexSection
      ...entityLink
      name
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment articleSeoArticle_3o8td4 on Article {
  ...hooksArticleSeoArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
  ...helpersGetArticleTypeArticle
  entityId
  publishedDate
  updatedDate
  summary {
    text
  }
  subHeadline {
    text
  }
  body(customContents: $customContents, type: $bodyType) {
    text
  }
  keywords
  sections {
    value {
      name
      id
    }
  }
  topics {
    name
    entityId
    id
  }
  urlAlias
  authors {
    name
    id
  }
  images {
    style(filter: {style: "768x768"}) {
      url
    }
  }
  readingTime
}

fragment articleSourceHeaderArticle on Article {
  urlAlias
  ...entityLink
}

fragment authorBlockPrintArticleArticle on Article {
  ...defaultArticleDateContent
  ...authorNamesArticle
}

fragment authorNameAuthor on Author {
  ...entityLink
  name
  entityUuid
}

fragment authorNamesArticle on Article {
  authorLocations
  authors {
    entityId
    location
    ...authorNameAuthor
    id
  }
}

fragment blockquoteQuoteContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...contentShareWidgetContent
}

fragment checkersCheckContentContainsStarlingImageContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  topics {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment contentHeadlineContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  headline
  socialHeadline
  ...contentHeadlineTagContent
  ...helpersUseContentSponsorContent
}

fragment contentHeadlineTagContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...hooksContentHeadlineTagContent
}

fragment contentNewsletterWidgetContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  topics {
    relatedNewsletters {
      ...helpersMassageToNewsletterItemNewsletter
      id
    }
    id
  }
  sections {
    value {
      relatedNewsletters {
        ...helpersMassageToNewsletterItemNewsletter
        id
      }
      id
    }
  }
  ... on Article {
    relatedNewsletters {
      ...helpersMassageToNewsletterItemNewsletter
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment contentSchemaRenderContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...blockquoteQuoteContent
  ...imageContent
  ...inlineWidgetContent
  ...photoGalleryWidgetContent
  ...scmpYoutubeContent
}

fragment contentShareWidgetContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  entityId
  urlAlias
  shortUrl
  socialHeadline
  headline
}

fragment contentSponsorTagContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...helpersUseContentSponsorContent
}

fragment contentSubHeadlineContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  subHeadline {
    json
  }
  summary {
    json
  }
  ...contentSchemaRenderContent
}

fragment defaultArticleDateContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...hooksArticleDateUtilsContent
}

fragment entityLink on BaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias {
  __isBaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias: __typename
  __typename
  entityId
  entityUuid
  urlAlias
  urlRedirect {
    toUrl
    id
  }
  application {
    entityId
    id
  }
  ... on Section {
    fullSectionPath {
      entityId
      id
    }
    parentSection
  }
  ...helpersAppBarVariantBase
  ...helpersApplicationBase
  ...helpersCheckIsPlusArticle
  ...helpersStyleSectionContent
}

fragment helpersAppBarVariantBase on BaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias {
  __isBaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias: __typename
  ...helpersCheckIsLiveArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPlusPage
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesPage
  ...helpersCheckIsPostMagazineArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsStyleArticle
  ...helpersSectionContent
  ...helpersStyleSectionContent
}

fragment helpersApplicationBase on BaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias {
  __isBaseWithApplicationAndUrlAlias: __typename
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesPage
  ...helpersCheckIsPlusPage
}

fragment helpersCheckIfNewsSectionInFirstIndexSection on Section {
  name
}

fragment helpersCheckIsAmpEnabledArticle on Article {
  entityId
  types {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
  sections {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
  disableOffPlatformContent
  sponsorType
  published
  ...helpersCheckIsPlusArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
}

fragment helpersCheckIsLiveArticle on Article {
  flattenTypeIds
  liveArticle {
    status
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsMainTopicContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  topics {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPlusArticle on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ... on Article {
    paywallTypes {
      entityUuid
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPlusPage on Page {
  urlAlias
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPostMagazineArticle on Article {
  sections {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle on Article {
  sections {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersCheckIsPostiesPage on Page {
  urlAlias
}

fragment helpersCheckIsStyleArticle on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  sections {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersGetArticleTypeArticle on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ... on Article {
    types {
      value {
        entityId
        id
      }
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersMassageToNewsletterItemNewsletter on Newsletter {
  entityId
  name
  alternativeName
  description {
    text
  }
  summary {
    text
  }
  homepageDescription {
    text
  }
}

fragment helpersSanitizeArticleTypeEntityIdsArticle on Article {
  types {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
}

fragment helpersSanitizeAuthorTypesArticle on Article {
  authors {
    types
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersSanitizedAuthorEntityIdsArticle on Article {
  authors {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersSectionContent on Section {
  fullSectionPath {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersStyleSectionContent on Section {
  fullSectionPath {
    entityId
    id
  }
}

fragment helpersUseContentSponsorContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  topics {
    entityId
    sponsor {
      ...sponsorTagSponsor
      name
      type
      id
    }
    id
  }
  ... on Article {
    sponsorType
  }
  ...helpersCheckIsMainTopicContent
}

fragment hooksArticleDateUtilsContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  createdDate
  publishedDate
  updatedDate
}

fragment hooksArticleSeoArticle on Article {
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsPostMagazineArticle
  ...helpersCheckIsStyleArticle
  ...hooksContentHeadlineTagContent
  ...helpersCheckIsAmpEnabledArticle
  entityId
  headline
  socialHeadline
  types {
    value {
      entityId
      id
    }
  }
  authors {
    entityId
    id
  }
  images {
    generic_og: style(filter: {style: "og_image_scmp_generic"}) {
      url
    }
    styles(filter: {styles: ["og_image_posties_article", "og_postmag", "og_image_style", "og_image_scmp_analysis", "og_image_scmp_explainer", "og_image_scmp_editorial", "og_image_scmp_fact_check", "og_image_scmp_debate", "og_image_scmp_live", "og_image_scmp_obituary", "og_image_scmp_opinion", "og_image_scmp_review", "og_image_scmp_series", "og_image_scmp_generic"]}) {
      url
      style
    }
    type
  }
  urlAlias
}

fragment hooksContentHeadlineTagContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  __typename
  ... on Article {
    types {
      value {
        name
        entityId
        description {
          text
        }
        id
      }
    }
    ...helpersCheckIsStyleArticle
  }
  flag
  sections {
    value {
      name
      id
    }
  }
  ...hooksContentHelperContent
}

fragment hooksContentHelperContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...helpersSanitizeArticleTypeEntityIdsArticle
  ...helpersSanitizeAuthorTypesArticle
  ...helpersSanitizedAuthorEntityIdsArticle
  flag
}

fragment hooksPaywallPromiseContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  entityId
  ...helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle
}

fragment hooksTrackPageViewArticle on Article {
  entityId
  publishedDate
  headline
  sections {
    value {
      name
      id
    }
  }
  urlAlias
  authors {
    name
    id
  }
  entityUuid
}

fragment imageContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  headline
  ...checkersCheckContentContainsStarlingImageContent
}

fragment inlineWidgetContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...contentNewsletterWidgetContent
}

fragment mainImagePrintArticleArticle on Article {
  images {
    title
    url
    isSlideshow
    size_652x446: style(filter: {style: "652x446"}) {
      url
    }
  }
}

fragment photoGalleryDialogContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  __typename
  ...contentShareWidgetContent
}

fragment photoGalleryWidgetContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  ...photoGalleryDialogContent
}

fragment scmpYoutubeContent on Content {
  __isContent: __typename
  entityId
  urlAlias
  publishedDate
}

fragment sponsorTagSponsor on Sponsor {
  name
  type
  images {
    url
  }
}


sections

types

disableOffPlatformContent

sponsorType

published

headline

socialHeadline

authors

images

publishedDate

updatedDate

summary

subHeadline

keywords

topics

readingTime

authorLocations

entityUuid

Cynthia Rosenfeld

'HATI-HATI!' I hear the Bahasa Indonesian call of caution flutter in the wind as I attempt the 'jump up' take-off that constitutes lesson number one at Surf Goddess Retreats on Bali's Seminyak beach. It's early morning and I'd rather be asleep, but the urge to merge with these seemingly gentle waves has motivated my bikini-clad body out of the   comfortable bed back at the retreat's private villas a short walk inland. Unaccustomed to  carrying anything heavier than a towel through the sand, I struggle with the flower-stenciled turquoise surfboard, or longboard, that's mine for this  week-long women-only surf school, the first of its kind in Asia.

The retreat's founder, Chelsea Rostill-Huntley,   says 'absolute beginners' - who constitute the majority of her guests - find Seminyak's calm waters the ideal training ground 'to learn about your board, connect with the waves and master the basics of surf etiquette'.

Belly on board as I skim along like a fish out of water, I put my trust in the sun-kissed instructors at Bali's Rip Curl School of Surf, who lead me and five other dog-paddlers around on these oversized boards, also known as Malibu boards. Chelsea says the increased stability of these  two-and-a-half-metre boards is like 'instant gratification because it's so much easier to catch waves and have fun while improving your skills without worrying about tipping over'. Why worry, I  ask myself. Instead, I simply wonder if I will ever stand up. By the week's end, I do indeed graduate from the prone paddle to something like the cool surf stance I dreamt of achieving, if only for a few moments at a time. I am bruised and exhausted but  also relaxed and enlightened thanks to the yoga, massage and Indonesian cooking classes available back at the Retreat.

The 1960s surf scene conjures images of hardcore enthusiasts living out of psychedelic painted Volkswagen buses, but these days  there  is considerably more  luxury available between wave breaks. Stressed out executives who want to 'hang 10' without sacrificing their creature comforts head to the Maldives, where  they can 'catch the curl' five minutes by speedboat from Four Seasons Kuda Huraa. Fast becoming known as one of the world's most indulgent surfing destinations, the high-performance waves of North Male Atoll serve up year-round water temperatures of 27-30 degrees Celsius, while the resort's  attentive staff pamper guests during off-board hours.  Tropicsurf, an Australian company specialising in surfing holidays, operates certified courses for beginners and surf clinics for all levels in the surrounding turquoise lagoon.

One-time surf novice Lucinda Ansell took up the sport here only last winter before returning  this spring to board  Four Seasons'  128-foot catamaran Explorer   for what she calls the 'ultimate wave-ride vacation'. She says: 'We cruised between the Indian Ocean's most insane surf spots in unsurpassable luxury, popped on a board from crest to crest, then got welcomed back  on board by smiling staff who wrapped us in bathrobes that felt like cloud fluff.'

Ross Phillips, chief executive of Tropicsurf,  says the remote locations accessible on the Explorer 'are breaks off coral reefs on the corners of islands, secluded locations no other surfers know about. The Explorer allows guests to live out their surfing fantasies - [to find] the perfect wave off tropical islands, like in the movies.'

The three-deck catamaran takes up to 22 guests. On-board packages include unlimited surf-time with guides plus technique improvement through video analysis back on the boat. Meanwhile, those who prefer to spend their time underwater can dive or snorkel with  a marine biologist. Other activities include kayaking, windsurfing, fishing, island tours, massages on the beach or simply relaxing in the boat's  hot tub.

While surfing has become a US$10 billion global industry, Oahu's North Shore, known as the birthplace of surfing, remains a classic destination. Be warned, though - nearly everyone in Hawaii surfs so expect to share the swells. In surf capital  Haleiwa,  the experts at North Shore Boardriders Club recommend  surfers head to  Waimea Bay for the  most consistent waves, though Sunset, Banzai and Ehukai beaches have their wetsuited loyalists as well. Check into a beach cottage at Turtle Bay Resort on 8km of surf-worthy beach. After dark, the Euro-Asian menu at its 21? North restaurant replenishes, but those seeking local flavour should  try the boiled shrimp and rice at Giovanni's Shrimp Truck, tucked off the highway between Sunset Beach and Turtle Bay. Complete the indigenous experience at Aoki's with shave ice , towering snow cones soaked in a kaleidoscope of coloured syrup that are as much a North Shore speciality as the waves themselves.

Some destinations never fade from glory, others become known as the next big break. Todos Santos, a  desert oasis on the  west coast of Mexico,  attracts California surfers cruising down the Baja Peninsula,  turning this former retirement destination into the region's chill-spot of choice. Beaches  such as Playa San Pedrito  and Playa Los Cerritos boast  clear waters and challenging waves, but seriously experienced surfers should test their skills on the big breaks off Isla Todos Santos 19km offshore, the largest of which is affectionately known as 'Killer' and has been known to surpass  18 metres.

Rest up in style at Todos Santos Inn, a 19th-century sugar baron's hacienda that is steps from Miguel's, which serves Todos Santos' sweetest margaritas.

Bear in mind the most serious wave-riders get up early. The best time to catch tips on riding these global swells is just past sunrise while most  holidaymakers are still nursing those margarita hangovers. When seeking out the next big kahuna, just follow the tanned bodies as they paddle out to sea and cruise towards sandy shores. Those born to board are always in the know.

Surf's up

Bali: Legian. From US$400 a room a night. Call 62 361 730 622, or visit www.ghmhotels.com.

The Ritz-Carlton, Bali Resort & Spa. From US$205 a room a night. Call 62 361 702 222, or visit www.ritzcarlton.com.

Surf Goddess Retreats. Seven-night packages from US$1,995 a person, sharing a twin room. Prices include bed and board, six personal surf lessons, six yoga sessions, a spa treatment and a cookery class. Call 65 6491 5097, or visit www.surfgoddessretreats.com.

Hawaii: Diamond Head, W Honolulu. From US$255 a room a night. Call 1 808 922 1700, or visit www.whotels.com.

Halekulani. From US$405 a room a night. Call 1 808 923 2311, or visit www.halekulani.com.

Turtle Bay Resort. From US$450 a room a night. Call 1 808 203 3650, or visit www.turtlebayresort.com.

Maldives: Four Seasons Kuda Huraa and Four Seasons Explorer. Rooms from US$680 a night; seven-night surf cruise from US$1,532 per person a night. The cruise includes bed and board, unlimited surfing, coaching and equipment. Call 960 664 4800, or visit www.fourseasons.com.

Huvafen Fushi. From US$800 a room a night. Call 960 664 4222, or visit www.huvafenfushi.com.

Naladhu. From US$2,000 a room a night. Call 960 664 1888, or visit www.naladhu.com.

Mexico: Hotel California. From US$125 a room a night. Call 52 612 145 0525, or visit www.hotelcaliforniabaja.com.

Todos Santos Inn. From US$125 a room a night. Call 52 612 145 0040, or visit www.todossantosinn.com.

Prices are subject to change without notice.



On the Crest of a Wave