It takes about 17 minutes to traverse Tokyo's consumer generation gap. In the city's youth mecca of Harajuku, goths, lolitas, rockers and young fashionistas fill a shopping landscape crowded with boutiques and brand-name franchises.
Nine stops away on the city's Yamanote loop line in Sugamo, the river of human traffic turns greyer and slower as it files past shops selling thermal underwear, hearing aids and orthopaedic socks. Shop entrances have been modified to accommodate wheelchairs, and hand-written signs replace neon. Think Harajuku for pensioners.