Little is wasted in the cuisines of the French, Chinese, Greeks and Italians. The French have been masters at dressing up animal parts that may be hard to identify unless you have a degree in anatomy, transforming them into beautiful pates and terrines. In Chinese cuisine, offal is embraced even more openly, with organ meats served as organ meats, without too much beautification. For a dish of poached pork liver and kidneys in supreme sauce, only the freshest specimens should be used. Although the cooking method is simple, the preparation is not, with the kidneys being especially tricky: they need to be cored and trimmed of the parts that filtered the body's impurities, then soaked to remove any residual smell. Don't overcook either ingredient, especially the liver, which, if cooked correctly, should be tender and rich. Soy sauce flavoured with Chinese five spice will extend the liver and kidney's richness and highlight their supple textures. Any wine served with this dish should have plenty of flavour, from being exposed to the bright sun. Rich whites work, but they can't be too pale or vivid. A lively sauvignon blanc would not contrast well with the richness of the offal; light reds and roses are the best match.

Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2008, Marlborough, New Zealand