Wine

Wine: Pighin Pinot Grigio.

Grape: Pinot Grigio.

Region: Grave, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, northeast Italy.

Vintage: As young as possible.

WINE has been produced in the Friuli, or to give the region its full name, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, for over 2,000 years. Unfortunately, for the first half of the 20th century most of the vines were hybrids producing low quality wine. Extensive replanting took place after World War II with the white grape varieties tocai friulano, pinot bianco, pinot grigio, verduzzo friulano, Sauvignon and Riesling replacing the hybrids. Friuli is now renowned for its white wines.

Although only two per cent of Italy's wine production comes from Friuli, much of it is exported. Almost without exception the white wines are fermented in stainless steel tanks, a technique which tends to produce uniform wines with little or no varietal character. They are refreshing with good acidity and at their best when young.

Pighin is a reliable, hi-tech producer which has developed an excellent reputation. The Pinot Grigio is a brilliant, light yellow colour with a copper tinge and a bouquet of nutmeg and acacia blossoms. On the palate the wine is dry and robust. It is an excellent accompaniment to antipasto, especially the local speciality, the salt-cured ham of San Daniele.

Quality: 16/20.

WHERE TO BUY: Direct from the importer Kedington Wines (tel: 898-9183) at $92 per bottle.