There’s a sense of handover déjà vu, yet so much has changed

Hong Kong prepares to mark a historic day. The city’s new leader is waiting in the wings. Concerns are raised about changes to the law. China and the US clash over human rights. And it’s pouring with rain. No wonder I am getting a sense of déjà vu.

All of this is familiar to Hong Kong residents today. But the issues also featured on Post front pages in 1997. Some things never change – but so much has.

The handover year was described as the biggest year in Hong Kong’s history. The city returned to China on July 1, ending more than 150 years of British rule. I arrived from London in 1994 and was married in March 1997. I had no idea what to expect once the British flag was lowered.

There was a lot of partying that year. Who could forget the Unity all-night rave in Kowloon Bay, attended by thousands on June 29. It was a great night, despite the long queues for a beer! Star performers included singer Grace Jones, rock band Gene and DJs Paul Oakenfold and Boy George. Those were the days.

But concerts by British star Elton John were cancelled after he was told he would have to keep the noise down. Urban councillors had even suggested those attending wear earphones. All this to preserve the “tranquillity” of Causeway Bay.

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The first half of the year saw a race to get transitional arrangements in place. There was much debate about the precise form the new “one country, two systems” concept should take. A legal challenge to the provisional legislature set up by Beijing was launched. Controversy was also sparked by planned changes to laws, including giving police more power over protests. An estimated 55,000 attended the June 4 vigil in Victoria Park, amid fears this would be the last time it would be allowed.

The first migrants from the mainland arrived in Hong Kong to claim permanent resident status under the new de facto constitution, the Basic Law. A marathon court battle with the government began.

Meanwhile, the city was changing in other ways. The new airport, to open the following year, was taking shape. The Tsing Ma suspension bridge, to make access to it easier, was completed in 1997. So was the new convention and exhibition centre, just in time to stage the handover ceremony.

Gang wars were raging in Macau and notorious gangster Yip Kai-foon was jailed for 41 years in Hong Kong.

This was also a year when the world lost leading figures. China’s paramount leader Deng Xiaoping died in February, Princess Diana in August, and Mother Teresa in September. Fashion designer Gianni Versace was shot dead in Florida in July.

Once the handover ceremony was over, Hong Kong’s first chief executive Tung Chee-hwa faced the unenviable task of making the new arrangements work. He promised to boost the economy and fix social problems, including unemployment, the ageing population, and housing. As I said, some things never change.

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Tung’s challenge was made greater by the Asian financial crisis which struck soon after he took office. But it was a public health threat, in the form of a bird flu outbreak, that dominated the news at the end of the year. The government ordered the slaughter of 1.2 million birds after four people died.

There is a time for nostalgia, but also much to reflect on when we look back to that transformative year for Hong Kong. It feels as if the city has changed more in the last three years than the 22 that preceded them. The civil unrest of 2019, national security law of 2020, and the ongoing pandemic have seen to that. Hong Kong people are tired and stressed. The atmosphere is subdued.

The anniversary has been described as “the second handover”. Hong Kong, just like 25 years ago, is contemplating its future. And it is pouring with rain, once again. Let us hope the clouds lift and sunnier days return.