Why the blazer is an essential part of every woman’s wardrobe, and the Italian brand that updated it

Tailored blazers for women have been a trend since the 1920s and ’30s thanks to style icons like Katherine Hepburn and Marlene Dietrich. It wasn’t until Bianca Jagger stepped out in her now iconic white Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking suit at her wedding to Mick Jagger, however, that this menswear staple became a must-have for women everywhere.

Now its enduring legacy is being given a refresh at Blazé Milano, a specialist brand that has built a thriving business around this single item of clothing.

“Working in the industry we saw everything from couture to the craziest clothes yet we all still felt and looked the best in a blazer. Fashion offers so much, but for us it’s about looking cool, understated and effortless in a nonchalant way. Only a blazer can do this,” says Corrada Rodriguez d’Acri, one of the brand’s co-founders.

Launched in 2013, Blazé Milano is the brainchild of three stylish Italian women – d’Acri, Delfina Pinardi and Sole Torlonia. All three met while working at Italian Elle and bonded over their shared love of sports and fashion.

A well-tailored blazer was already a part of their daily uniform, but they noticed a lack of styles that were cut specifically to suit a woman’s body.

“Sure, you can get a jacket everywhere, but no one made just blazers and only for women. In Italy there is this deep connection and tradition of sartorial menswear but for women nothing existed. We saw a gap for styles that were not classic and boring, but were classic and cool. We haven’t invented anything but what we have done is adapted it to how we live our lives today and that gives us a unique perspective,” says d’Acri.

Blazé Milano started out as a made-to-order business with a small atelier located in Milan. It was only when they were approached by a showroom that they decided to expand into ready-to-wear.

Two years later they launched a retail collection to much success. The brand is now available at prestigious stores around the world including Lane Crawford in Hong Kong, while “Blazé girls,” include celebrities and influencers like Alexa Chung, Aimee Song and Karlie Kloss.

The line, which began with one style – the bestselling double breasted Everyday blazer – has also expanded to around 20 styles that are clever adaptations of the original blazer. Highlights include the Ballroom, a hybrid between a duster and evening dress; Blazer Robe, a smoking jacket; as well as season appropriate styles such as a cape silhouette for autumn/winter.

What keeps women coming back, though, is the quality. Every piece is made in Italy, using mostly British, French or Italian fabrics. Many are exclusive or customised for the brand – for example, the silks are sourced from archives in Como, the wools from Scotland. For the coming autumn/winter 2019 season, the Orient Express inspired collection includes rich velvets and brocades.

Interestingly there is no difference in the construction methods used for their made-to-order and off-the-rack creations. Each style boasts functional details, including four interior pockets that fit all your essentials and their signature “smiley pocket”, which was borrowed from a vintage 1920s theatre dress.

“We want to transmit s specific kind of woman all the time – one who is powerful, charming, elegant and classy, which is why we often look to the past for our muses. Last year it was Lady Diana. We also did a collection inspired by Loulou de la Falaise. Next spring we are channelling Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy,” says D’Acri.

More recently the brand has added separates to its collections such as matching trousers and shirts to wear underneath the jacket.

“We want to keep to the excellence of the blazer, because we truly believe this is what our brand represents. Women feel sexy in it, yet it’s appropriate and brings together your look. Like a pair of high heels, it makes you feel great.”

Two other tailoring brands to try …

Pallas

This Parisian couture house opened its doors back in the 1960s, creating couture pieces for the likes of Balenciaga and Celine. It now has its own ready-to-wear line featuring iconic styles such as the Le Smoking jacket.

Available at netaporter.com

Giuliva Heritage Collection

Known for its fresh take on traditional men’s tailoring, this Italian brand specialises in outerwear including blazers and jackets. All pieces are made from high-quality natural materials using only sustainable manufacturing processes to create a luxe, artisanal look.

Available at matchesfashion.com