Formalwear for men can be either classic or contemporary

It's the season of galas, cocktails and balls - and much of the focus is traditionally on glamorous womenswear. But it's harder for many men to maintain an up-to-date look while traversing the regulations of formal dressing.

There are two distinct camps when it comes to smart attire for men - the classic and the more contemporary.

Strict dress codes can now be interpreted in myriad ways, with some men taking a traditional route and others choosing to put their own individual spin on evening wear.

In Hong Kong, two respected fashion emporiums espouse very different takes on the theme. This season, The Armoury and Shanghai Tang put forward cases for their own approach to formal.

For Alan See, co-founder of menswear boutique The Armoury, the answer is always in the classic. "We are all about the classics," he says. "For formalwear, think Fred Astaire. Watch his movies and you will see that he is always impeccably dressed in a tuxedo or top hat and tails."

The difficulty, according to See, is that men no longer know the rules of formal dressing, and this leads to fashion faux pas. "Times have changed, and people don't really know what's formal and what's casual any more. The most common mistake I see is people thinking that a suit and black tie will do for black tie. It won't."

For See, taking the classic approach means the parameters of menswear are clearly defined. And when it comes to black tie, he says "it's all about the tux. The tuxedo is something that every man should have in his wardrobe."

While there are variants on the style - peak lapels, shawl collars and double breasted suits - in general, you shouldn't stray too far from the tried and true.

"I go for the most classic, failsafe, one button with a peak lapel," says See.

This is not to say that men can't have fun with their formalwear. "Black tie is the one time that a gentleman could, and should, really take time getting ready. It's all in the details. He can wear jewellery with studs and cufflinks, and have a bit of fun with them."

To finish off, some simple Oxfords should do the trick.

"Traditionally, people wore opera pumps. Although a lot of people now might find them a bit too dainty, a plain black Oxford that shines up nicely would be acceptable."

Over at Shanghai Tang, where Armele Barbier is head of menswear design, the realms of what is acceptable are broader. "Now you see guys wearing Church's lace-ups all week, whether it is walking around town on a Saturday, or a power lunch at Otto e Mezzo Bombana on a Wednesday.

"The nine-to-five uniform, and the idea of special attire, is becoming a thing of the past. Men want a wardrobe that can do everything and go anywhere," she says.

Citing Steve McQueen and Pharrell Williams as style icons, she recommends that men wear what they feel most comfortable in.

"To fall into the cliché of a tux with a white shirt is always elegant for sure. But men have a tendency to wear that once a year, and it can get outdated with trouser legs being too wide or too long. I hate to see that. Elegance needs maintenance, and you must think outside the box. If you don't feel comfortable with a tux, wear a velvet jacket with black trousers, or a black suit with refined lightweight wool. That can be very elegant and it's easier."

Beyond the realms of black tie, there is a host of more casual events that still demand extremely elegant outfits.

"A lot of people come to us and see something like smart casual or cocktail, and they say, 'What does that even mean?'" says See, who still recommends following strict codes for these rules of dressing.

"A cocktail party would imply that it's night or past sunset, and if that's the case you want to go for a suit that's a bit darker. Maybe a navy or a charcoal, or something with more sheen that is always a bit luxe." In terms of style, single or double-breasted will do, "although the formality of the double-breasted is a nice touch, and it's very flattering when done properly".

See would always go for a white shirt - "something in twill would give a very clean kind of finish when ironed" - finished off with a classic tie, also in darker tones.

Barbier, again, would argue for something a little looser.

"Dressing well no longer means putting on a shirt and a tie. We at Shanghai Tang understood this earlier, liberating men from the necktie and offering an alternative elegant wardrobe of not-so-constructed jackets, or evening suits in addition to the mandarin collar shirt."

Her key cocktail pieces for this season would include a micro-motif silk evening jacket from the autumn-winter 2015 collection, worn with "a black tuxedo shirt instead of white, so you will be a little special compared to others". They have also delivered leather and bomber styles.

Whether you choose to stand out from the crowd, or adhere to style rules that have stood the test of time, one thing is clear: the devil is in the details. It's time to focus on your formalwear, boys.

Night moves: how to keep it classy

Tips from Armele Barbier, head of menswear design at Shanghai Tang

1. You can experiment with shoes, choose AI trainers or even Stan Smiths to wear with your velvet Tang jacket just like The Sartorialist's Scott Schuman.

2. Every man needs an elegant evening watch, perhaps an Altiplano by Piaget.

3. Buy a slim, long wallet like the Lattice from Shanghai Tang that doesn't bulk up the lines of your suit. I designed it for this very purpose, slim is the word.

4. If you never normally wear formal, seek advice from your tailor or the salesman. They can show you different options, talk them through and help you look natural and confident.

5. A cotton handkerchief is more modern and gives a nice twist and contrast with evening wear.

Alan See, co-founder of The Armoury

1. With a suit, the tie width should be in proportion to everything else, especially the lapels of your jacket. Given that we are about the classics, I recommend 8cm to 9cm wide.

2. People see the words "smart casual" and think they can turn up in jeans. That is not correct. It means sports coats instead of suits - you still have to wear a jacket, the most appropriate is a navy blazer - and no brass buttons unless you are a member of a club. Go for horn or mother of pearl buttons instead.

3. Knitted ties are a great option for less strict dress codes. James Bond always wore a black knitted one.

4. If you are wearing a suit you need formal shoes. Oxfords are formal enough, and everyone likes loafers. A good English make such as Saint Crispin's is ideal.

5. Make sure that any jewellery you wear is the right size.