Restaurant review: George Private Kitchen in Sai Ying Pun

George Private Kitchen is a place we’ve been chasing all over Hong Kong in an attempt to review it: it was first in Yau Ma Tei, then Sai Wan Ho, before moving to its present location in Sai Ying Pun. It’s a bit of a bother to eat there: there’s a minimum charge of HK$450 per person, and you need to order the menu – and pay for it – in advance. There was a choice between set dinners and an a la carte selection, and we decided to compose our own meal.

Drunken pig’s trotters (HK$80) had great flavour from the rice wine, wild Sichuan peppercorns and a touch of chilli, but we prefer them to be cooked longer so the meat, skin and cartilage is easier to chew off the bone.

The chilled Chiu Chow-style grey mullet (HK$200) was excellent, with soft flesh that we scraped clean from the bones. We also liked the char siu and chicken liver in maltose sauce (HK$150), especially the rich, succulent livers.

Honey-glazed Chinese ham with lotus seeds (HK$800) would have been better shared with more people. The quality of the ham was very good – we especially loved the layer of translucent fat – but the meat is so intense and salty that it’s hard to eat more than a few bites. Braised turnip, chitterlings and brisket (HK$160) was light and soothing, and braised e-fu noodles with porcini and golden ham (HK$80) was another subtle dish.

Fresh chicken (HK$300/half) covered with a heap of minced spring onions made us wish for a bowl of rice to soak up the sauce.

Desserts of pears with apricot kernel cream (HK$55) and a silky smooth cashew cream with glutinous rice flour balls (HK$40) were excellent.

George Private Kitchen, 158A Connaught Road West, Sheung Wan, tel: 9094 2362. Minimum charge of HK$450 per person