Eclairs: Hong Kong’s hottest French pastry treat
The finger-shaped cream puff is proving a heavyweight favourite as chefs dish up a creative range of sweet and savoury flavours
Move over macarons, the eclair is the hottest French pastryin Hong Kongright now. The finger-shaped cream puff, the name of which means “lightning” in French, is not exactly new to the city: global brands including Fauchon, La Maison du Chocolat and Maison Eric Kayser sell eclairs,while local soft-serve ice cream hotspot Via Tokyo, in Causeway Bay, has also been making a matcha version for its sweet-toothed customers.
“I started to create my first eclair – orange flavoured – with Fauchon in 2002,” says Adam, whoalso worked at Le Gavroche in London and Hotel de Crillon in Paris. “Little by little I’ve created maybe 300 different eclairs and, in 2008, I organised for Fauchon the first ever Eclair Week [which has now become an annual event]. When I left Fauchon four years ago, I was encouraged by [co-founder and entrepreneur] Charles Lahmi to create a brand with just eclairs.”
It will take some time to sample all of Adam’s jewel-like creations: 10 flavours are available each day and the selection changes each month when two or three new varieties will be added. Adam’s favourite is the salted butter caramel version as it reminds him of his childhood in Brittany – a region in France famous for its salted butter – but everyone will be able to find a flavour that appeals to them, whether it’s pistachio-orange, chestnut-blueberry (made exclusively for the Hong Kong debut), or milk chocolate praline.
Also making fashionable eclairs ispastry chef Roy Lau Kwong-hung.When Lau was asked to devise the dessert menu for The Park Lane Hong Kong Pullman Hotel’s new lobby lounge, Ebb & Flow, the eclair seemed the obvious choice to fit in with the space’s chic interior design.
His eclairs are also available in a mini size as part of daily afternoon tea, in which scones are replaced by all-you-can-eat waffles. The apple caramel eclair is Lau’s personal favourite, although it’s also the most time-consuming to make as the apple has to be soaked in caramel overnight for a deeper
colour and flavour. To create his Japanese-inspired matcha azuki bean eclair, he cooks red bean paste from scratch with three different types of sugar. A new flavour in the works is purple sweet potato, Lau adds.
At Wood Ta.Lk in Mong Kok, the eclair gets a major local makeover. A sister restaurant of La Postre in Sheung Wan, the two-storey lifestyle store and cafe allows guests to build their own eclair. Calling the invention an ice dog, co-owner Jerry Yu Tung-wing says they bake and freeze their oversized choux pastry in their Sheung Wan kitchen daily before shipping it to their Mong Kok venue. When there’s an order, they reheat the choux pastry in a toaster “for a crispy exterior and chewy interior,” he says.
“Our ice dog is great for grab-and-go, although customers are always welcome to enjoy it in our cosy space upstairs,”Yu says. “We’re always looking to provide something different and the ice dog is our unique spin on the traditional pastry.”
And if you think the eclair is only a dessert, think again as Yu’s team and chef Marc Toutain have both came up with savoury options. Toutain, in particular, is determined to change the stereotype that eclairs have to be sweet with his start-up named Éclair! The first of a series of projects after the chef started his own company two months ago, Éclair! focuses on providing savoury eclairs for private events and catering, although Toutain also makes some decadent chocolate ones and is looking to open a bricks-and-mortar shop eventually.
Each savoury eclair Toutain creates is a meal on its own. Think smoked duck breast with berries, mackerel on a bed of potato salad, and crabmeat with dollops of guacamole. Toutain has created about 10 varieties so far and considers foie gras with brie foam and fig, which was a hit at the Wine & Dine Festival in October, their signature. Say hello to the couple at the Christmas markets in Stanley Plaza and Olympian City, where they will sell bite-sized chocolate eclairs.
Toutain makes everything from scratch – including the chocolate cream for which he grinds his own Valrhona chocolate beans.
Ebb & Flow
The Park Lane Hong Kong Pullman Hotel, 310 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, tel: 2839 3377
Éclair!
eclairshk.com, or email [email protected] or [email protected]
L’Éclair de Génie
Pop-up kiosks at Level 2, Park Court, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, and 1/F Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Central, tel: 2554 7729
Wood Ta.Lk
118 Fa Yuen Street, Mong Kok, tel: 2191 5900