Restaurant review: Cochin in Central – quintessential French fare in a casual setting
Wonderful beef tartare from Paris’ top butcher and lamb pot-au-feu, however, the pastry and desserts didn’t reach the same culinary heights
We visited Cochin – the small French bistro that replaced Peruvian restaurant, Chicha, on a quiet night when only a couple of other tables were occupied.
Our second favourite dish was the organic lamb pot-au-feu with anchovy-herb dressing (HK$260). It was a summery and refined version of pot-au-feu, with tender meat, a light but deeply flavoured broth and vegetables that included pea pods and yellow squash.
We loved the meaty, well-seasoned filling of the rabbit and foie gras pie (HK$275), but the pastry was soggy and not buttery enough.
Of the desserts, pistachio creme brulée (HK$120) was smooth enough, but tasted oddly more like marzipan than pistachio. The accompanying langues de chat were too hard. Babau au rum (HK$130) was a failure: it tasted as if it had been made of pound cake, rather than a spongy savarin dough, and the syrup was too sweet.
Cochin, 26 Peel Street, Central, tel: 2561 3336. About HK$325 without drinks or the service charge