Bar review: Worth The Fuss in Causeway Bay – worth it if you are passing

The vibe: Worth the Fuss is an oasis on a thirst-inducing stretch of Causeway Bay’s Morrison Hill Road, surely one of Hong Kong’s least atmospheric streets (unless you have a passion for lighting fixtures). A huge “WTF” picked out in lights on the façade makes it easy to spot. The bar has clearly established itself as a neighbourhood hang-out – everyone who came in seemed to know each other – and manages a creditably cosy feel despite the soulless location. The manager/bartender is knowledgeable and eager to help you find the right drink. For those who like their noise levels higher, there are live music and DJ nights.

The Boulevardier (HK$95, rye whisky, Rinomato, red vermouth, orange bitters), was delicious, rich, complex and well-balanced. Unfortunately, the Bronx (HK$120, London No 1 gin, sweet and dry vermouth, orange juice) had been shaken too long, diluting both the delicate flavour and the subtle kick this drink should have.

Continuing our voyage in time, the Old-Fashioned (HK$95, bourbon, sugar, bitters), which dates back all the way to the 1880s, was nicely made, with a touch of soda water added to lighten it. Jumping to the 1950s, we asked for the Vesper (HK$120, gin, vodka, dry vermouth) to be stirred, not shaken (sorry, James Bond) and the result was a perfect Martini, elegant, intense and dry.