New restaurants in Hong Kong: delicately spiced Middle Eastern treats at Bedu in Sheung Wan

The paper table mats at Bedu, a Middle Eastern restaurant in Sheung Wan, serve as the menu; it is divided into dippers, smaller, bigger, something more, and desserts. The waiter recommended some dishes, which were all the ones my guest and I had been tempted by anyway.

The smoky hummus (HK$55) was smooth and light, and went well with the house-made flatbread (HK$50). The bread, served straight from the oven, was soft and delicious, with a gentle smokiness.

Golden spiced manti with yogurt and Aleppo chilli oil (HK$115) was another winner. Topped with toasted almonds, the small dumplings had thin wrappers that were well stuffed with a delicate but flavourful filling.

We liked the flavours of the charred broccoli with crispy kale, chilli and zhoug (spicy coriander sauce, HK$115) but the broccoli should have been cooked longer – it was hard at the stem ends.

Salt-baked potatoes with shanklish cheese and pomegranate (HK$95) was one of the best potato dishes I’ve eaten. The manager explained they had been coated in duck and chicken fat before being roasted; they were soft inside, crisp outside, and were totally satisfying.

We thought it odd that the broccoli/kale and potato dishes were served as starters; to us, they seemed more like side dishes.

In any case, they did go well with our one main course of rack of lamb with garlic labneh and za’atar oil (HK$180). The lamb was succulent, moist and tender, and cooked to medium-rare (although we weren’t asked our preference); we picked up the bones so we could eat every bit of the meat.

Set yogurt with honeycomb and orange blossom (HK$85) was smooth and fragrant, but the honeycomb had been cooked so it was a little too dark, giving it a bitter flavour.

Bedu, 40 Gough Street, Sheung Wan, tel: 2320 4450. About HK$350 per person without drinks. There’s no service charge.

While you’re in the area