Egyptian food – hummus, tagine, falafel – at Hong Kong’s Aziza in Sai Ying Pun hits the spot

Anyone lamenting the closure of Habibi, the Egyptian restaurant that had been in various locations in Lan Kwai Fong and Central, should make their way to Aziza, which has opened a new branch of its Kennedy Town-based eatery in Sai Ying Pun.

The owner, Mohsen Ibrahim, used to be the chef at Habibi, and he remembered me and one of my guests from our previous visits to Habibi.

Aziza isn’t the cosy place that Habibi was, which had warm lighting and, in its latest space, cushions for lounging on.

Apart from a large mural of ancient Egypt and few other decorative touches, Aziza’s interior isn’t much different from what you’d see in an inexpensive Italian restaurant. However, we weren’t there to judge the furnishing, just the food – which we enjoyed.

The menu is long and slightly confusing, listing hot and cold appetisers, soups, main courses, tagines, burgers and sandwiches, side dishes, snacks, and desserts.

The hummus (HK$60) was smooth, creamy and delicious. Bosara (HK$65), made with broad beans, onions, garlic and herbs, was a smooth purée like the hummus, but entirely different in taste – more robust and strongly flavoured.

The falafel (HK$72) came as flat discs and had plenty of crunchy coating that contrasted with the soft, herby interior.

The lamb shawarma (HK$125) – thin slices of lamb shaved from a spit – was hot, moist, tender and well-seasoned.

The vegetable tagine with chicken (HK$137) was made with dark meat. The chicken had been grilled before being added to the array of vegetables swimming in a balanced tomato sauce, which gave the dish a slightly smoky texture. When Ibrahim saw us eating the tagine, he saw that we had not ordered the couscous, and insisted we try it (he comped it), saying he made it himself.

Forget the packaged couscous most of us are used to – this was textured, wheaty and delicious. Ibrahim was right – it went very well with the tagine.

For dessert, we found the pistachio baklava (HK$50) to be soggy, but we loved the kounafa (HK$78), made with kadaif (shredded pastry dough) and ricotta cheese, which was warm, crunchy and not too sweet.

Aziza, The Upton, 345 Des Voeux Road West, Sai Ying Pun, tel: 2886 4889. About HK$230 per person, without drinks or the service charge.