First impressions of Mono in Central: ultra-high-end, mostly European dishes are delightful

At Mono, Venezuelan chef Ricardo Chaneton – who, most famously, worked previously at Mirazur (which now has three Michelin stars and is #1 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list) in Menton, France, has found a space that doesn’t distract from his cuisine.

I loved his food at Petrus at the Island Shangri-La, but the old-fashioned dining room was entirely the opposite of the modern, complex food that he was serving. Mono’s space – a small dining room and a long, open kitchen where diners at the counter can watch Chaneton and his team prepare the food – is intimate and friendly.

The bright, vivid flavours of ocean crudo made the perfect palate-whetting starter. Scallops, carabinero prawns and Brittany oyster were served with a French-inspired vinegar-based ceviche marinade, with small blobs of shallot cream to balance the acidity.

The next course was a little heavier. Small squares of fromage de tete (head cheese) came with romanesco broccoli, cauliflower and a rich boudin noir (black pudding) sauce, while chicharrones (pork crackling) added a light crunch, and finger lime caviar gave a much needed tartness.

My guest and were recognised when we arrived, so our next course was upgraded with the addition of Alba white truffle (which normally has a supplement of HK$420). Succulent poached Nova Scotia lobster was served with a light vin jaune sauce – a combination Chaneton explained was traditional in France, saying that the white truffle was a touch he added because he liked it – as did we. House-made sourdough bread came with a delicious organic olive oil.

We loved the fish dish, which Chaneton said was his favourite of the meal. It was a thick slice of a lake fish called humble chevalier (“humble knight”), cooked to rare and served on top of tender pieces of tendon that gave the sauce a lip smacking, sticky texture.

“Monkbread” is a dish I remember from Petrus, although it’s now a little different. Monkfish and veal sweetbread were cooked together so they fused into one piece, while each part maintained its own flavour and texture – the former firm and lobster-like, the other soft and succulent.

The next dish was a literal show stopper. With a propane torch, Chaneton heated a volcanic rock mortar and pestle, before using it to toast a house-made spice powder. He then mixed in chilli paste made from seven types of chilli, and a paste made from hazelnuts, almonds and cashews, activated charcoal, aubergine, cocoa powder and chocolate. The resulting mole was spectacular – rich and complex, and absolutely delicious served with the Mieral pigeon cooked so it was very rare, tender and gamy. The legs and liver of the bird were made into a forcemeat and wrapped in a spinach leaf, while crosne (Chinese artichoke) finished the dish.

A pre-dessert of poached pear was served with a mascarpone cream flavoured with Frangelico and orange. We loved the main dessert – an unlikely combination of Carupano chocolate crepe with Sicilian olive oil and rosemary.

Mono by Ricardo Chaneton, 5/F 18 On Lan Street, Central, tel: 2506 8676. Dinner: tasting menu HK$1,280; lunch: four-course menu for HK$520, seven courses for HK$1,080.