A slice of lab-grown foie gras made by Gourmey. Photo: Bloomberg
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https://scmp.com/lifestyle/food-drink/article/3142083/will-lab-grown-foie-gras-satisfy-chefs-and-gourmets-paris Food & Drink
Will lab-grown foie gras satisfy chefs and gourmets? Paris-based start-up is banking on its cultured fatty duck liver
- Gourmey has raised US$10 million from European and US investors to help perfect its recipe for creating fattened duck liver in a laboratory
- ‘In terms of taste and texture, we’re 90 per cent there,’ said Gourmey co-founder Victor Sayous, a doctoral student in molecular biology
Marion Gaff, a food engineer at Gourmey, carries out density tests on lab-grown foie gras at the start-up’s laboratory in Paris, France. Photo: Bloomberg
It’s the quintessential French delicacy, but increasingly targeted by animal welfare activists: so can foie gras grown from duck cells find a place at the gourmet’s table?
That’s the goal for Gourmey, a Paris-based venture that raised US$10 million from European and US investors this month to perfect its recipe for making fattened duck liver in a lab.
“There’s a very strong need for an alternative to regular foie gras, a controversial product that needs to reinvent itself,” said Nicolas Morin-Forest, one of Gourmey’s three founders. “We want to show that cultured meat is not limited to burgers but can also be used for gastronomic products.”
Duck livers, a speciality of southwest France in particular, are prized either on their own – star chef Alain Ducasse has served it seared with braised pears – or cooked as a velvety foie gras paté.
It is obtained by force-feeding ducks with a tube stuck down their throats, a practice denounced by critics as unnecessarily cruel and distressing for the animals. California has outlawed foie gras sales for years and New York plans to do so next year.
Britain prohibits foie gras production and is weighing a ban on sales, while European Parliament lawmakers proposed last month to prohibit the forced feeding of ducks or geese, another source of foie gras.
Mass meat production is also in the cross hairs of environmental campaigners, who say the industry consumes too much water and energy while producing huge amounts of methane, a greenhouse gas.
“With more than 9.5 billion human beings on the planet in 2050, we’re going to have to be producing much more meat – the conventional models that require significant resources won’t be enough,” Morin-Forest said.
Housed in a university research lab, Gourmey has spent the past two years developing its process for faux livers able to pass muster with chefs and food fans. Its other founders are Antoine Davydoff, a cellular biologist, and Victor Sayous, a doctoral student in molecular biology, and they now have around 20 employees.
A dish of lab-grown foie gras produced by Gourmey. Photo: Bloomberg
“In terms of taste and texture, we’re 90 per cent there,” said Sayous, who hails from the foie gras heartland of southwest France. “Last Christmas I served it to my family on toasts, alongside traditional foie gras, without telling them. Some were blown away and hadn’t noticed the difference.”
Their recipe starts with taking cells from the fertilised duck egg and placing them in an aluminium “cultivator” where they swim in a nutrient solution maintained at 37 degrees Celsius (99 Fahrenheit).
As the cells divide and multiply, their “food” is adjusted to promote the growth of liver cells that are ready after two to three weeks.
A food engineer demonstrates duck stem cell transfer for lab-grown foie gras production at the Gourmey laboratory. Photo: Bloomberg
A little vegetable fat is then added to obtain the creamy consistency, and chefs have been brought in to help fine-tune the results.
“It has taken us over 600 attempts. Several times a week we taste different formulas, and we’ve ended up with a recipe that is pretty decent, even if it’s not yet perfect,” Morin-Forest said.
With its latest funding round, Gourmey will move to a 1,000 square metre (nearly 11,000 square foot) facility in central Paris aimed at proving to investors the viability of large-scale production.
The start-up also aims to lower its costs and plans to start growing chicken, turkey and duck meats. But first its foie gras will need certification from health authorities – so far only Singapore has approved lab-grown meat, for chicken nuggets made by a US firm.
Gourmey will first look to sell its duck livers in the US and Asian markets. Photo: Bloomberg
Initially Gourmey will look to market its livers in the US and Asia, “where there is both an obvious need and a more advanced regulatory climate”, Morin-Forest said.
Closer to home, requests will be evaluated by the European Food Safety Authority.
But winning over officials might prove tricky. “Count on me, in France meat will always be natural and never artificial!” Agriculture Minister Julien Denormandie tweeted last December.