Source:
https://scmp.com/lifestyle/travel-leisure/article/3023390/pet-cemetery-vietnam-where-animals-hungry-ghosts-return
Lifestyle/ Travel & Leisure

The pet cemetery in Vietnam where animals’ hungry ghosts return every year for a feast

  • Milk, grapes, sausages and moon cakes are placed on graves of pets laid to rest at the Te Dong Vat Nga pagoda in Hanoi
  • The pet cemetery’s owner believes animals’ souls should be treated with dignity, and puts on the feast every year
A woman cleans the plaque on the grave of her dog at Te Dong Vat Nga pagoda, a pet cemetery in Hanoi. Photo: Nhac Nguyen/AFP

Sausages, grapes, milk and moon cakes are laid at the gravestones of beloved cats and dogs at Hanoi’s pet cemetery – an earthly feast for the souls of dead animals believed to return from the afterlife for a meal to mark ghost month.

Dozens of pet owners turned out for a solemn ceremony at the “Te Dong Vat Nga” pagoda – its name means all lives are equal – where thousands of dogs and cats have been laid to rest in the burial grounds on site.

It is a feasting ritual more often performed across Vietnam for dead ancestors whose souls are believed to wander the earth during ghost month and are honoured with a large meal offering before it closes at the end of August.

But the charismatic dog loving Buddhist who runs the pet graveyard believes animal souls should be treated with the same dignity as human ones.

“We love dogs and cats, not just in this life but in the next life as well,” says Nguyen Bao Sinh, who opened the graveyard 50 years ago.

He has cremated or buried around 10,000 animals – including the odd turtle, bird or fish – and charges US$45 to US$65 a year to pet owners to set up plaques and mini gravestones for their lost pets.

Nguyen Thi Xuan Trang touches the plaque on her dog’s grave at Te Dong Vat Nga pagoda, a cemetery for pets in Hanoi. Photo: Nhac Nguyen/AFP
Nguyen Thi Xuan Trang touches the plaque on her dog’s grave at Te Dong Vat Nga pagoda, a cemetery for pets in Hanoi. Photo: Nhac Nguyen/AFP

It’s a small price to pay for those who want to make sure their beloved animals are comfortable in the afterlife.

“Bon deserves to have a decent resting place permanently so that he can be at peace,” says Nguyen Anh Minh after leaving milk, yogurt and grapes for his husky, who died earlier this year.

For Nguyen Thi Xuan Trang, giving her dog Quoc – who she thought of as a son – a proper burial has brought her peace of mind.

A young woman looks at the graves of dogs and cats at Te Dong Vat Nga pagoda. Photo: Nhac Nguyen/AFP
A young woman looks at the graves of dogs and cats at Te Dong Vat Nga pagoda. Photo: Nhac Nguyen/AFP

“I bought him peanuts and a moon cake because those were his favourite foods,” she says.

Cemetery owner Sinh says people thought he was crazy when he opened the site in a country where dog and cat meat is sometimes offered on the menu.

Though cats and dogs are more commonly kept as pets in Vietnam these days, it’s not unusual to see guard dogs confined to cages or illicit animal parts like rhino horn or pangolin scales used in traditional medicine.

Two women stand before the plague of their pets after placing offerings. Photo: Nhac Nguyen/ AFP
Two women stand before the plague of their pets after placing offerings. Photo: Nhac Nguyen/ AFP

Sinh, a former soldier whose now deceased dog joined him on the battlefield during the Vietnam war, hopes the pet graveyard will help people see animals in a new light – and spread a message of kindness.

“Animals and humans are equal,” he says. “When you love an animal you will not be cruel to human beings.”