Holding back the years: Beauty products for the 20s, 30s, 40s and 50s

LOOKING AFTER OUR SKIN is essential whatever our age. But as we get older our skin needs different solutions to stay in top condition. So whether you are embarking on your first proper skincare regime in your 20s, or looking for an anti-ageing boost in your 50s, it's worth seeking out the right products.

"Your skin is like a time machine," says Kim Le Sambolec, director of online consultancy The Cosmetic Concierge (thecosmetic-concierge.com). "It keeps memories by leaving a trail within its layers of what you have done throughout your life in regards to sunbathing, stressful jobs, lack of sleep, alcohol, bad diet, hormonal imbalances. The earlier you start to look after it the fewer concerns you will potentially have in the years ahead."

"In reality, every individual shows signs of ageing at a different rate," adds Shoshana Marmon, a certified dermatologist from New York doing research in Hong Kong. "Treatments for women in their 40s may be appropriate for someone in their 20s and vice versa. Still, generalisations can be made about different skin concerns among people in their 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s and beyond."

Roaring 20s - protect and prevent

According to Google, 1.5 million women search for the word "spots" every day, yet 97 per cent of the products for this condition are aimed at teens.

"For many people, acne remains a serious concern, especially in the early 20s," Marmon says. "It is very important not to pick at acne lesions as that may result in permanent scarring. Controlling breakouts is the best approach to prevent damage later."

Le Sambolec recommends brands that contain ingredients such as retinol, vitamins C and E, alpha and beta hydroxy acids and peptides.

La Roche Posay's EffacLar Duo (HK$260/40ml, available at Mannings) helps control the growth of spot-creating bacteria and prevents clogged pores, stopping spots in their tracks without overdrying the skin, as well as helping to reduce redness and swelling. It's suitable for sensitive skin types.

Perricone MD Intensive Pore Treatment (HK$650/59ml, available at Joyce Beauty) treats enlarged pores with a cocktail of zinc, glycolic and salicylic acid, which help to tighten and shrink pore size, rather than masking them.

But although spots may be one of the biggest skin concerns for women in their 20s, Le Sambolec advocates protecting skin from harmful UV rays above all else.

"No matter what age group, it is essential for the healthy maintenance and function of the skin to incorporate sun protection into your regimen," she says. "Protect and maintain young skin to prevent future concerns."

"Using a sunscreen daily with protection from UVA and UVB rays is probably the best thing you can do for your skin," adds Marmon. "Check the labels as some sunscreens only prevent exposure to UVB, whereas UVA may be more central to the ageing process."

In addition, try a broad-based antioxidant such as SkinCeuticals' C E Ferulic (HK$1,580/30ml, available at Bellezza Beauty, 48 Queen's Road Central), under your sunscreen. This works against ultraviolet light which can break down the body's ability to produce collagen, an essential component in keeping skin plump, firm, radiant and at its youthful best for longer. The way you care for your skin now will determine what it will look like for the rest of your life.

Fabulous at 30 - upping the ante

It may be the new 20 but it doesn't take long for future skincare concerns to accumulate. Even if you've looked after your skin, you will probably start noticing fine lines and wrinkles, particularly around your eyes and lips.

Le Sambolec says women in their 30s lose a minimum of 1 per cent of collagen each year. You lose more if you are a sun worshipper, so start using products that help slow down this degeneration.

Clinique's Youth Surge SPF15 /PA ++ Age Decelerating Moisturizer (HK$565/50ml, available at Sasa) helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, both associated with collagen loss, while providing essential UV protection.

Origins' new Plantscription Youth-renewing face oil (HK$475/30ml, available at Lane Crawford), meanwhile, applied both day and night, can add a luminous glow to dull skin tones caused by a slower cell turnover. The slowing down of this natural process can also lead to dry skin, so adding an oil like this provides the nourishment it needs to function properly.

Another common problem that appears in your 30s is hyperpigmentation or dark spots. "These mainly occur in sun-exposed areas of the skin and are related to amount of sun exposure over time," Marmon says.

French skincare and make-up guru Terry de Gunzburg has explored the brightening properties of white rose native cells in her latest skincare offering, Cellularose Brightening Serum (HK$1,085/30ml, available at Joyce Beauty). This helps to reduce the appearance of dark spots and marks, while leaving skin with a radiant glow and a beautiful, soothing rosy scent to your skin.

Life begins at 40 - plump up the volume

While life may be for living, by the time we hit 40 it's beginning to show all over our faces. "Many women notice the appearance of deeper lines and volume loss in their face when they hit 40," explains Marmon.

According to Le Sambolec, this is the time when the UV damage we accrued 10 or 15 years earlier becomes really noticeable. "Was that tan really worth the wrinkles, age spots and loss of skin elasticity?"

Neal's Yard Remedies' new Frankincense Intense (HK$790/30ml, available at 65 Hollywood Road, Central) helps fight ageing with powerful blend of frankincense, gardenia plant stem cells and organic plant oils which reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and plump up the skin, while nourishing and protecting it.

Our 40s are also the time when we start needing more targeted anti-ageing skin solutions. RéVive's new Intensité Volumizing Eye Serum (HK$3,400/15ml, available at Joyce Beauty) is designed to help plump and rebuild lost volume, filling in hollows and reducing the look of dark circles, under eye bags and crepey skin.

Similarly, Guerlain's new Orchidée Impériale Eye and Lip Cream (HK$1,650/15ml, available at Institute 7/F, 1 Duddell Street, Central) uses the extract from a rare orchid to banish bags, dark circles, wrinkles and dark shadows to leave the delicate skin around the mouth and eyes looking smoother.

Growing old gracefully at 50

It's never too late to prevent sun damage, even if you are in your 50s. Your cell turnover may slow down but the most significant change you'll notice in your complexion is dryness and loss of elasticity.

Marmon suggests fractional laser resurfacing, which helps boost collagen, improves texture and reduces sunspots but for those who prefer a topical alternative, there is a host of new products.

Elemis' new Pro-Intense Lift Effect Super Serum (HK$2,340, available at Harvey Nichols) promises to shape, lift and firm the face in 30 days. This is really like a spa treatment at home with four separate steps including the serum, a night cream, eye and lip contour cream and a face mask to be used once a week.

Esteé Lauder's anti-ageing hero, Re-Nutriv Intensive Age-Renewal Crème (HK$1,800/50ml, available at Sogo) repairs past skin damage, recharges sagging skin and provides deep moisturising benefits thanks to a blend of anti-ageing ingredients.

Wei Beauty's Dragon Blood Eye Lifting Pads (HK$580, available at Joyce Beauty) are specially formulated with a red sap known as "dragon's blood", which helps lift sagging skin, while providing long-term firming benefits.

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