Classic Hong Kong restaurants: Jumbo Kingdom, Aberdeen Harbour

"Before Jumbo, there were only Palace and Tai Pak. They were smaller vessels and very popular, which is why we opened Jumbo, on October 20, 1976," says the restaurant's business manager, Chan Wing-hung, who has been with the restaurant from the start.

"All three restaurants did really well when docked right at the pier. But in 1978, the government had us moved, and it's been quieter ever since," says Chan. "There was nothing in this area when we first moved here. The Marine Police, the Aberdeen Marina Club, and all the luxury apartments — none of them were here. It's changed a lot, but it's still a peaceful place."

In 1982 and 1987 respectively, Jumbo bought Palace and Tai Pak to form Jumbo Kingdom. Jumbo's iconic opulent decor, with its gilded dragons and ornate carvings, became the style of Palace and Tai Pak as well. This chain of floating neon pagodas has become one of Hong Kong's landmarks.

"We have always been a tourist attraction, and we work closely with the Hong Kong Tourism Board. In the early days, there were a lot more Japanese tourists as customers, and these days we have many Koreans and Russians," Chan says.

"Fresh seafood has always been our main offering. And dishes like flambé prawns have always been popular. Diners still enjoy dramatic tableside service."

Jumbo Kingdom, Shum Wan Pier Drive, Wong Chuk Hang, Aberdeen, tel: 2553 9111. Open: Monday-Saturday 11am-11.30pm, Sunday 9am-11.30pm