Takumi by Daisuke Mori provides master class in subtlety and restraint

FARE Contemporary French with Japanese attention to detail. AMBIENCE An intimate, studious space, in the style of a 12-seater sushi bar. COST Six-dish set dinner HK$1,680 per person; nine-dish set dinner HK$2,080 per person. WHO TO BRING Your inquisitive soulmate/heart’s desire or business clients. TURN-ONS The kinmedai fish shabu-shabu (kinmedai is also known as the golden-eye snapper, or splendid alfonsino) was a master class in subtlety and restraint. The ichiban dashi broth flavoured with yuzu fruit, in which the fish was served, had a delicate body to it that made us want to ask for seconds. The caviar course, comprising Oscietra caviar with Hokkaido uni and new onion and served in a tin, took control of the taste buds. If this wasn’t the best uni in Hong Kong, it’s a contender. Another major draw of Takumi is that diners get a close-up view of head chef Daisuke Mori and his assistants as they work. This was fascinating to watch, given that every stage of each dish required clinical attention to detail. We found it a calming experience, and it provided almost unlimited fodder for conversation. TURN-OFFS THE wagyu tenderloin was bland. While expertly prepared, the meat didn’t have the distinctive buttery flavour and richness we were hoping for. DRINKS The wine pairings, from HK$880, are worth bolting onto the experience - one highlight being the Chassagne-Montrachet that accompanied the shabu-shabu.