So near, yet so feared

Cecilie Gamst Berg

Star turn: Joy Tsin Lau offers both food and opera of the Cantonese variety.

Although China is and always will be my holiday destination of choice, sometimes a woman just has to take a leap into the great unknown - into, for example, Memphis, Tennessee and Dodge City, Kansas.

We middle-aged people tend to become creatures of habit, though; we dislike things that are just too unknown. So I decided to visit every Chinese restaurant in the United States between New York and San Francisco and vacuum my way through the menus in every one of them. Not very ambitious, I know, but I needed to keep my Canto-roots watered, as it were.

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