Key spring-summer trends fresh from Paris
From metallics and sheers to 80s silhouettes, here are key spring-summer trends fresh from Paris Fashion Week
This roller-coaster month of fashion weeks finally ended in Paris. It saw seismic shifts in the industry and an array of design themes pervading the runways in all four of the major fashion destinations. New York was dominated by news of designers, including Ralph Lauren and Tom Ford, moving to a see-now, buy-now production model. Many London designers bucked the city’s reputation for tough, street-inspired wear in favour of all that is girly, ruffled and feminine, along with deconstructed shirting and silver accents (also seen on fashion folk in audiences). Milan showed a penchant for techno sporty looks, ruffles, hippy Americana, fun tropical motifs and pleating.
Paris showcased many of the season’s trends in their most creative iterations. A series of new designers helmed big brands – see Maria Grazia Chiuri at Christian Dior, Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent and Bouchra Jarrar at Lanvin – manifesting their own aesthetic ideals while interpreting the brands’ storied house codes. Girl power was palpable – women designers were having their moment in the City of Light, with more of them than ever leading top brands and creating relatable ways of dressing for women. Here are eight of the big runway trends from the French capital:
4 TIES, STRAPS AND BUCKLE FASTENERS “Tie me up and tie me down,” said the clothes on French runways this season, in a continuation of the trend from other cities. It’s become a popular design tool for sprucing up an outfit to make it more fashion forward and tap the bigger trend for “undone” fashion. Dior’s sporty turn had clever straps on padded fencing vests; Sacai, Carven and Maison Martin Margiela had buckles everywhere; Chloé had thick tied shoulder straps holding up outfits; at Sonia Rykiel and Ellery models had straps undone and trailing behind them.
but skirts and dresses, too. See exquisitely embroidered, ballet-inspired dresses at Dior and featherweight gowns at Valentino and Lanvin; or Alexander McQueen and Giambattista Valli’s ruffled creations. Carven did lacy, sheer tops, and Céline, flowy skirts. Go on, flash some skin.
6 UTILITY – BIG POCKETS, DENIMS AND WORKWEAR-INSPIRED Utility workwear has been a pervading influence on women’s fashion for some seasons now. Hardy denim proved popular and oversized pockets appeared all over jackets, shirts, trousers and a jumpsuit cut loose like a mechanic’s coverall. Look to Hermès, Sacai, Givenchy and Stella McCartney, who does it so cleverly, showing that the new trouser shape for women has voluminous and roomy legs, but is gathered small and high at the waist.
8 BOLD STATEMENT METALLICS Adding extra shine to collections were metallic details, accents and tones. Alexander McQueen’s metallic jewellery on corset tops was stellar, as were golden thread embroideries at Dior. Balmain went with shiny, lurex and glittering gold and silver on bodycon outfits. Elie Saab liberally employed sequins and Haider Ackermann and Kenzo did shiny jewel tones.