Fashion designer Edeline Lee on how culture of consumerism fosters insecurity and disempowers women

You trained with designers such as John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. What did you learn from them? “Both of them were storytellers: whether through Galliano’s masterful use of colour and material, or McQueen’s precise detail and cut. The narrative itself was infused into the spirit of the clothes, and that aspect influences my work.”

How did you end up launching your own line in 2012? “A jeweller friend, Cora Sheibani, commissioned me to develop a capsule collection to showcase alongside her work. Our presentation was written up in Vogue and women wanted to buy the dresses. I made some more clothes with the money I made, and slowly and organically, I had a brand.”

Who are the women who wear your brand? “My perspective as a designer has always been international – I’m Korean, born in Canada and have lived in the United States, England, France and Italy. I speak multiple languages and grew up in a period when the internet changed everything and travel became cheap and convenient.

“The women I dress tend to belong to the category that doesn’t belong to any one place, but are able to be stylish, comfortable and gracious in any setting anywhere in the world.”

Is there an old-world vibe in your work? “When a shape is flattering, or follows the line of the body, people presume it is refer­encing the past just because the waistline lands at the true waist, but that, in fact, is the most comfortable place to tie a belt.

“If you look carefully, my dresses could not have been made in the past. The Future Lady is an idea I had to encompass the muse I am designing for. Female identity is in flux, our roles are shifting drama­tically. I want to explore what it is to dress with true power while still being feminine, graceful and dignified.”

Why do you insist on making your clothes in Britain? “There is a history of craftsmanship there that is unparalleled. On Savile Row, I learned from a master who was still doing things the old way. I spent four months learning how to sew a buttonhole!”

What is your biggest challenge? “A culture of consumerism has meant that women have been taught to need more and more, without regard for quality, to fill a never-ending hole. This propagates insecurity and is disempowering for women. You can sidestep this by buying less, buying things with more meaning. You need to actually try on my clothes to understand how they feel and fit.”