Lagerfeld opts for a refined sobriety of sharply-cut black and grey slit dresses, worn over short thigh-riding miniskirts. Photo: Xinhua/Piero Biasion
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https://scmp.com/magazines/style/fashion-beauty/article/2153713/karl-lagerfelds-chanel-paris-show-classily-restrained Luxury
Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel Paris show is classily restrained, meticulously detailed
Haute couture autumn winter 2018/19 collection runs from heritage to futuristic, with slits appearing in abundance
Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel haute couture autumn winter 2018/19 collection show looks spectacular on the set he had built inside the Grand Palais in Paris. Photo: Xinhua/Piero Biasion
Legendary designer and bibliophile Karl Lagerfeld made a pitch for immortality on Tuesday by setting his very Parisian Chanel haute couture show in front of a replica of the Académie française.
The venerable institution, whose members are known as “the immortals”, was the backdrop for the spectacular set featuring the banks of the Seine that Lagerfeld had built inside the Grand Palais in the French capital.
Everything from the bouquinistes’ stands with their vintage Vogue magazines and books eulogising Chanel, to the Paris pavements and lamp posts was recreated in staggeringly realistic detail.
All it lacked to pass for the real thing was the tourist tat and a few beggars.
Lagerfeld even roped in his godsons Hudson and Jameson Kroenig to play riverside booksellers along with their father, the square-jawed American model Brad Kroenig.
All, of course, were dressed in Chanel.
Lagerfeld told reporters later that he can see the Quai Voltaire and the academies that act as the guardians of French culture from his windows.
At 84, the Kaiser is now too old to be admitted into any of the august bodies housed below the gilded dome of Institut de France.
In fact he is nearly a decade over the age limit to be a sage, yet the German-born designer shows no signs of slowing with two haute couture shows in two days – with another for Fendi on Wednesday.
Despite appearing doddery on his feet recently, there was almost a spring in his step on Tuesday as he took the bow for a classily restrained autumn winter haute couture collection marked by slit dresses and sleeves.
Victorian chic
“Karl is as fresh as a bridegroom,” Condé Nast maven Karina Dobrotvorskaya cooed on Instagram over her picture of him with his “bride”, the traditional finale of couture shows.
Karl is as fresh as a bridegroom #karllagerfeld @chanelofficial #chanel #couture
A post shared by karinadobrotvorskaya (@karinadobrotvorskaya) on Jul 3, 2018 at 1:34am PDT
The pale green two-piece dress, inspired by the olive leaf motif worn by academicians, was worn by South Sudanese-Australian model Adut Akech, who also opened the last Chanel Cruise show. The South Sudanese-British model Alek Wek, who has recently come out of retirement, was the first black model to be given that honour 14 years ago.
Like the Dior show the previous day, Lagerfeld went for a refined sobriety of sharply-cut black and grey slit dresses, worn over short thigh-riding miniskirts.
Many were lit up by flashes of crystals, feathers and glittery-edged embroidery, which pointed up the zipped slit arms.
Spanish actress Penelope Cruz and South Korean heartthrob Han Hyo-joo sat in the front row, along with singers Lily Allen and Pharrell Williams. Dazzling the audience, Lagerfeld often paired black with silver, giving nostalgic touches a metallic futuristic edge.
Much of the collection had a revved-up retro late-1940s feel, with ankle boots and models’ hair styled in cockerel quiffs, and some models wearing fascinator hats. There were also Belle Époque Victorian flourishes in satin and tulle dresses with glittery tweed capes and long fingerless gloves.