Vintage Hermès and the original Birkin bag: fashion lover Catherine B. tells all

We all know the story behind how then-Hermès president Jean-Louis Dumas designed the Birkin bag for actress Jane Birkin in 1984 when she couldn’t find a bag that would fit all of her travel essentials. But do you ever wonder where that original It bag is today?

We spoke to Catherine B., fashion lover and owner of vintage boutique Les Trois Marches in Paris’ Saint Germain, and proud owner of the bag that started it all. The collector shared how she got her hands on the iconic bag along with tips on how to build a vintage Hermès collection.

How did you first become interested in Hermès bags?

As a true Parisienne, born-and-bred in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, I’ve always been attracted to the beauty of things, particularly old things that have had a life and tell a story. Fashion was always something I loved but not an industry that I particularly wanted to work into.

I saw Hermès bags being transmitted from one generation to the next in my family, and even when they weren’t in vogue, they were always there, a trusted family member. So I couldn’t not be interested in how they came to exist. For me, it was the symbol of French craftsmanship, imagined and created in France by French hands and heritage.

Now, I’ve had clients who have been coming regularly for decades, even if they have no desire to add to their collections, but because exchanging about craft is important to them, and they know it is to me too.

Can you tell us how you acquired the original Birkin bag?

In 2000, a friend at a Paris auction house said she had something I needed to see. When I went to visit, she brought out a bag from a safe. It was one I had seen a thousand times in photos on the arm of Jane Birkin. The first one ever, from 1984 which Jean-Louis Dumas himself had created for the actress. I said, “That can’t possibly be THE bag”. I had to have it. At the auction, I gave it my all, and then some! But it was worth it.

It is highly sought after as a collectible museum piece, so it is kept and maintained as such. There is insurance on it, so it’s not something I can just swing around on my arm. It was exhibited in 2016 at MoMA.

This is not a piece that I would part with, so it is priceless. It’s a part of fashion and design history, not a commodity I bought to speculate upon.

What advice do you have for those who are building their vintage Hermès collection?

Put as many questions to the seller as you feel necessary! The first Hermès bags were only made in a handful of colours like white beige, red, brown or black. Pieces from the Sixties are stamped Hermès Paris, and not “Hermès Paris Made in France.”

For a new Hermès collector, start with scarves. The quality is exceptional, and there’s always a good moment to wear one.

In terms of bags, go for a Kelly, no matter what size. Get to know the leathers, because that’s what you’ll be looking at first. Always prioritise leather quality, never what colour is trendy today.

If you’re in the market for a Birkin, go for early 1990s editions in box leather. Both the Kelly and Birkin are perennials. Hermès doesn’t make bags to buy today and forget tomorrow; they are meant to be passed from generation to generation.

Where do you find vintage bags?

They mostly come to me through word of mouth. The Saint-Germain-des-Prés location meant that I was quickly able to start acquiring incredible pieces through acquaintances. The boutique really pulls people in. I also look at auction houses, when they have auctions around the two brands that I collect and sell: Chanel and Hermès.

What are your thoughts on the growing trend of collectors buying Hermès bags as investment?

It’s a bit sad because passion is absent from the purchase. An investment of any kind without passion has no future. People who hoard Hermès bags for their value and not because they find something they admire in the items should find something else they’re passionate about. If their investment doesn’t come through, they will treat these items, made with care and dedication by skilled craftspeople, as just stuff – and that is a very disheartening thought. Even I, with the store, have always, always gone with my heart. From my experience, I’ve even refused items that I knew would sell but I didn’t like them or believe in the piece. Not everything is about money.

What would you say are the most sought-after Hermès bags today?

To me, the Birkin and Kelly will always be neck-a-neck as the reigning Hermès bags. The Constance is particularly sought after. In terms of leather, I would say that if you find a Barenia natural leather or a beautiful Box [leather] with patina, you are golden. Gold hardware is always more chic, silver hardware gives pieces a more modern but cold feel.

After that, it’s all a question of preference, and as I said before, leather quality is essential. You’re better off with an impeccable Taurillon Clemence, rather than a very damaged Box.

What are your tips for caring and storage of these bags?

A luxury product is not a museum piece – the original Birkin excepted, perhaps! And Hermès bags are built to last, and will be with you for decades if you take good care of them. So take the time to learn how to care for them properly, or find a craftsperson who can.

Don’t let them get wet, and immediately wipe them if you are caught in the rain. To avoid catastrophe, never forget to waterproof your bags, either yourself or through a professional if you have not done this before.

Stuff the bags and protect them in their dustbags when not in use, so that they keep their original shape and the leather suffers no damage while in storage. With the exception of the Kelly Rigide, lay them flat if you can so that the base doesn’t start sagging, particularly when you have softer leathers like Taurillon. If you can’t, put them on a hanger, while taking care to protect the handle before you do so.

If you have a bag that has lived a bit too much, don’t hesitate to bring it to the Hermès bag spa, where they can do miracles to renovate even the worst damage. They have fingers of gold. If you can, take your bags in every couple of years. They made them, so they definitely know how to best care for them.

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