Zegna’s spring/summer 2019 collection
Source:
https://scmp.com/magazines/style/fashion-beauty/article/3009662/style-edit-zegnas-alessandro-sartori-goes-weightless Luxury
STYLE Edit: Zegna’s Alessandro Sartori goes ‘weightless’ with spring/summer collection
Performance fabrics and lightweight nylons were used effortlessly in menswear collection, alluding to the traditional tailoring that the maison does so well
Zegna’s spring/summer 2019 collection
Palazzo Mondadori, an architectural wonder that looks like it’s sitting on water, in Milan, Italy, was where creative director Alessandro Sartori positioned Ermenegildo Zegna for its fashion week reveal. A mirrored catwalk and overwhelming concrete arches in the distance set the tone for Zegna’s spring/summer 2019 collection.
The idea of ‘weightlessness’ pervaded the landscape and, more significantly, Sartori’s every stitch and silhouette. Performance fabrics and lightweight nylons were used effortlessly in Zegna’s menswear collection, all the while alluding to the traditional tailoring that the Italian maison does so well.
The first look highlighted a leather crew neck sweater in bow green calfskin with silicone-injected embroidered logos of XXX and thermal tape detailing.
Single-breasted suits and coats featured “double sleeves”, polo shirts were given elongated plackets, and double pleat trousers were functionally tailored with adjustable cuffs.
A dipped collar bomber suit in desert beige cotton and satin linen looked like the perfect balance between modern streetwear aesthetics and Zegna’s long-established history of flattering the male form.
The colour palette regularly featured natural, subdued tones such as taupe, pale blue or “Tropea” pink, suggesting that laid-back vibe we’re seeing all over runways this summer. Check patterns on double pleat trousers weren’t ostentatious; instead, golf course green, ivory and desert beige check on cotton and silk kept ensembles soft and refined.
Even the oversized suits and coats with graphic tennis prints all over seemed rather effortless.
Luxury sneakerheads might have noticed the EZC Claudio, Corrado and Cesare sneakers on the runway, alongside derby shoes and smooth calfskin sandals. The sneakers are a contemporary realisation of Zegna’s leatherworking traditions, updated with tech-net detailing and multicoloured sports lacing.
Other accessories included a dark-pink maxi holdall, an extra large vertical shopping bag in dark blue calfskin leather with printed pinstripes, and a hybrid knit and suede cap in multiple colours.
Indeed, the collection had a youthful, confident swing in its step, reminding us of the “Chosen Ones” for retailers today; that is, the Gen Z consumer that is defining style and luxury.
If this is the future of menswear, we’re here for it.