Source:
https://scmp.com/magazines/style/leisure/article/3043371/how-choose-perfect-wine-according-hide-london-restaurant
Style/ Leisure

How to choose the perfect wine, according to Hide London, the restaurant with Europe’s largest wine list

Do you experience fear every time a sommelier presents you with the wine list? We visited the restaurant with Europe’s largest cellar for a crash course on all things grape

A grand circular staircase greets visitors to Hide – the London restaurant with Europe’s largest wine list. Photo: Handout

How does one get started in wine? With the endless grape varieties, the depth and complexity of understanding terroir, it's an intimidating liquid to learn about.

For most of us, our first contact with wine is in a bar or restaurant. The first few interactions and how gently drinkers are eased into the category can dictate whether they continue into the wine world or turn away from it.

This brings us to Hide, one of London's most exciting restaurants. Open since early 2018, Hide holds bottles in its cellar worth hundreds of thousands of dollars which collectively add up to Europe's largest wine selection – and the world's second largest. Between Hide and its sister wine store down the street, Hedonism, they hold more than 6,000 different bottles.

But how, in this environment, can a complete wine beginner be brought into the world of wine and taught the basics to turn interest into passion?

Hide is truly remarkable, starting from the decor. The design – from the cute footprints imprinted on the hard wooden floors and the famous staircase to the light show in the private rooms – suggest a restaurant which could be called a piece of art.

The kitchen is headed by Ollie Dabbous, one of London’s most successful chefs, who created dishes for the ground and top floor of Hide, while the bar and private rooms underground give people more privacy and also access to an amazing selection of spirits.

Yet, we’re here for the wine – Julia Sewell, Hide’s wine manager, takes us through the process of helping a newcomer find a wine they love. Julia begins with simple questions to hone in on each drinker’s preference. Is there something you’ve had before that you enjoyed? What kind of drinks do you usually drink?

In many cases, knowing if someone is a whisky, rum, or beer drinker can help lead them to the perfect wine. While the team would ask if an aged wine is preferred, it’s safer to go with a younger wine as a beginner. As a Scotch drinker, the heavier red wines appeal to me, but for a lager drinker the lighter ones are more appealing.

Last but not least, the price comes into question. Ranging from under US$130 into the tens of thousands, price is an important yet delicate matter to discuss. As Julia mentions, creating a casual, educational conversation is what leads a drinker to the wine they love, and the team at Hide try their best to provide that, despite the intimidating iPad list featuring thousands of bottles.

Hide is one of the most talked about restaurants in London, and this is evident in every aspect of the hospitality, food, drinks and decor. Yet, with Hedonism already an established store on the global wine scene, it makes sense for Hide to be the go-to place for wine tasting and an education on the category. The team are going above and beyond, and have now given you some basic tips to get you started on your journey into wine.

Video produced by Christian Haywood

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