Zodiaque Cancri necklace in rose gold and blue quartz representing the sign’s water element. Photos: Van Cleef & Arpels
Source:
https://scmp.com/magazines/style/luxury/article/3158563/style-edit-decoding-van-cleef-arpels-new-zodiaque-collection Luxury
STYLE Edit: Decoding Van Cleef & Arpels’ new Zodiaque collection – the high jewellery brand honours the zodiac with stunning gold necklaces and medals
- The constellations and Western astrological signs have long fascinated designers at the Parisian luxury brand – see 2018’s acclaimed Zodiaque Lumineux series
- New necklaces feature rarely used stones referencing the signs’ elements, such as lapis lazuli for air, blue quartz for water, red jasper for fire and malachite for earth
Van Cleef & Arpels Zodiaque Piscium necklace, with its sodalite background evoking the ocean depths. Photo: Van Cleef & Arpels
The heavens’ constellations have been an enduring source of inspiration for lovers, dreamers and creative souls everywhere. Similarly, the signs of the Western zodiac have long fascinated designers at the celebrated Parisian high jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels. A range of astrologically decorated items, including charms, bracelets, pendants, clips and cuff links, have regularly appeared in its collections over the decades, many adorned with materials including wood, diamonds, mother-of-pearl and ornamental stones.
Since 2014, the zodiac has been making its return on various Van Cleef & Arpels watches, including the acclaimed Zodiaque Lumineux series from 2018. Now they feature in a new Zodiaque jewellery collection that honours each of the 12 astrological signs in two different ways: with a selection of long necklaces encrusted with rare ornamental stones that illustrate the symbols and the elements they belong to; and, in a move that also updates much-loved Van Cleef & Arpels pieces from the past, with a group of solid yellow gold medals that also depict the various signs.
The reverse of the Zodiaque Virginis – or Virgo – solid yellow gold pendant. Photos: Van Cleef & Arpels
A dynamic ram graces the Zodiaque Arietis solid yellow gold pendant. Photos: Van Cleef & Arpels
The 12 long necklaces showcase representations of the signs on either side, picked out in three-dimensional relief. On the front, they depict the zodiac symbol in rose gold in the foreground, offset by a background that highlights its element – earth, air, fire or water – in a different ornamental stone, each rarely used in jewellery making. The same materials and techniques adorn the necklaces’ backs, depicting in gold the astrological symbols, names and the dates to which they correspond.
The reverse of the Zodiaque Leonis necklace in rose gold and red jasper, representing fire. Photos: Van Cleef & Arpels
Among the earth signs, Virgo is represented by malachite with undulating motifs, Taurus by randomly chromed aventurine and Capricorn by amazonite. The materials used for the air signs echo the beauty of the night sky: lapis lazuli to represent Gemini, blue aventurine for Aquarius and shimmering gold obsidian for Libra. The fire signs are evoked with materials that suggest flames, lava and embers: iron eye for Aries, red pietersite for Sagittarius and red jasper for Leo. The water signs, meanwhile, are conjured up by materials that recall ocean depths, with blue quartz for Cancer, sodalite for Pisces and turquoise for Scorpio. Each stone is chosen for its harmonious appearance, nuances of colour, opacity and translucence, with the gold motifs initially inscribed on them in wax before being recreated in rose gold.
A side shot of the Zodiaque Geminorum necklace in rose gold and lapis lazuli, representing air. Photos: Van Cleef & Arpels
Solid gold medals started to appear as part of Van Cleef & Arpels collections from the 1950s, and quickly became a runaway success, available in a wide range of sizes and shapes. Now they are making a spectacular comeback in the Zodiaque collection, as the house’s first astrologically inspired medals, produced in a new 21mm size. Like the necklaces, these yellow gold medals feature a three-dimensional depiction of the signs and dates of the zodiac on both sides.