Source:
https://scmp.com/magazines/style/news-trends/article/3011951/why-longines-blancpain-and-other-luxury-brands-recreate
Style/ News & Trends

Why Longines, Blancpain and other luxury brands recreate vintage watches loved by celebrities

The record US$17.75 million paid for Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona and US$51,250 for Charlie Chaplin’s timepiece highlight demand for classic styles of yesteryear

Charlie Chaplin’s Rolex Oyster, made in about 1945, attracted huge interest when it was sold at auction in 2013 for US$51,250.

 

The design of a wristwatch often carries with it distinct characters and styles of the time, but, more importantly, the zeitgeist of the era in which it is made.

Timepieces once belonging to historical figures, celebrities and prominent families are regarded as not only stylish accessories, but also cultural artefacts.

The stories behind each watch often make them sought-after items at auctions and high-profile sales, sometimes setting record prices.  

In this spirit, top luxury watch brands are recreating designs inspired by their own vintage models. Check out some of the best-known, in-demand vintage timepieces.

Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona, US$17.75 million

A wristwatch bequeathed by the late American actor, racing driver and philanthropist Paul Newman set a record for the highest price paid at auction for a timepiece in 2017.

The Rolex Daytona was a gift to Newman from his wife, Joanne Woodward, while playing the part of a racing driver during the making of the 1969 film, Winning, in which they both starred.

A short, loving message, “Drive Carefully – me”, was inscribed on the back of the case, to request his safe return.

Newman was often seen wearing the watch, which he gave to James Cox, the former boyfriend of his daughter, Nell, in 1984.

A 1968-made, stainless steel watch of this type would originally have sold for US$300. When the watch went under the hammer in New York, it was sold after only 12 minutes of heated bidding for US$17.75 million.

James Dean pocket watch, HK$325,000

Another watch left behind by a celebrity is a pocket watch made by Standard USA in about 1889.

It was once owned by the late American actor James Dean, who appeared in only three films before his death, aged 24, in a car crash in 1955.

He bought the watch in 1951, before he found fame, and later gave it to his friend Tillie Starriet, who worked at the film studio, Warner Brothers. She wrote to verify the authenticity of the timepiece.

The keyless pocket watch, which has an Elgin movement, came inside a wooden case with a golden emblem on the front cover. Dean’s initials “JD” are carved on its surface.

It was sold at auction in Hong Kong in 2013 for HK$325,000 (about US$41,401), despite having an estimated value of only US$5,000.

Elvis Presley’s Omega, US$1.8 million

An Omega wristwatch given to music legend Elvis Presley also attracted great attention from collectors.

The Omega watch was originally bought at Tiffany & Co., which is why the dial carries the names of both brands.

With a case made of 18-carat white gold and decorated with 44 diamonds around the bezel, the wristwatch has a plain yet elegant design.

RCA Records presented the watch to Presley in celebration of the date when he reached record sales of 75 million in 1960. The back of the case is in inscribed with the words: “To Elvis, 75 Million Records, RCA Victor, 12-25-60”.

The Elvis Presley Museum certified that the watch was presented to Presley in February 1961 in Memphis, Tennessee.

The watch, which had an estimated value of between US$53,000 and US$107,000 was sold at auction in Geneva, Switzerland, for US$1.8 million in May 2018.

Charlie Chaplin’s wristwatch, US$51,250

Another highly valued vintage watch is the Rolex Oyster, made in about 1945, which was owned by the late Charlie Chaplin, the acclaimed silent comic actor and filmmaker.

The timepiece, featuring a simple design and a waterproof, stainless steel case, was rare for being one of the few left-handed models made to be worn on the right wrist.

The watch, which had an estimated value of about US$12,000 when it was auctioned in New York in 2013, was sold for US$51,250.

Watch brands release vintage-inspired designs

The keen interest generated by vintage watches with historic value has led to many major brands creating new timepieces with retro designs.

These brands, including Rolex, Tudor, Oris, Omega, Blancpain, IWC, Longines and Bell & Ross, have been able to use their own classic designs from the past as an inspiration.

Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms collection traces its origins back to its marine series dating from 1953.

Oris released a few limited edition timepieces, Oris Big Crown, Oris ChronOris, Oris Divers Sixty-Five last year, which had references to products from the last century, too.

Longines’ new Heritage line revives a variety of elegant designs, some from the first world war and others from the years immediately after the second world war.

Ownership of a watch with vintage elements is not simply a matter of wealth, it also adds to its allure and feeling of sophistication.

Want more stories like this? Sign up here. Follow STYLE on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter