Milk-fed veal fillet in tilleul and wasabi veal head, which forms past of the tasting menu served at L’Envol at the St. Regis Hong Kong.
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https://scmp.com/magazines/style/news-trends/article/3012386/we-review-lenvol-st-regis-hong-kong-where-french News & Trends
We review L’Envol at the St. Regis Hong Kong, where French cuisine reaches new heights
New hotel’s restaurant, helmed by chef Oliver Elzer, offers contemporary French cuisine, including a choice of tasting menu options
The interior of L'Envol at the St. Regis Hong Kong, which features a stunning, central screen with a hand-painted silk covering.
Everything about the St. Regis Hong Kong, which opened last month in Wan Chai, on Hong Kong Island, screams gorgeous: from the decor to the restaurants.
L’Envol is the hotel’s French fine dining eatery – the name, meaning “the flight” in French, referencing aircraft taking off and the soaring start of a memorable meal. And, the experience did not disappoint.
Chef Olivier Elzer, previously with Seasons by Olivier E and L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, creates contemporary French dishes, which change with the seasons.
Chef Olivier Elzer of L’Envol, who creates contemporary French dishes which change with the seasons.
The 64-seat dining room is arranged across two salons filled with natural light, which are divided by a floor-to-ceiling stone and glass screen, creating an intimate space.
At the centre of the screen is a hand-painted silk wall covering, with splashes of gold expressing the artistry of the cuisine.
The soft palette and subtle pattern, accentuated by curved shapes and luxurious woven upholstery, evoke images of glamorous Parisian dining.
The soft palette and subtle patterns of [the dividing screen at l’Envol] evoke images of glamorous Parisian dining, which are accentuated by curved shapes and luxurious woven upholstery
The banquette-style seats around marble tables in the main dining room overlook a large open kitchen, which stretches the length of the restaurant.
The large open kitchen, which stretches the length of L’Envol restaurant.
We tucked into a tasting menu featuring Elzer’s signature dishes.
The chilled French green pea cream and mint soup with smoked burrata ice cream has a deliciously refreshing taste of spring, and the ice cream balanced perfectly with the peas.
Chilled French green pea cream and mint soup, with smoked burrata ice cream, served as part of L’Envol’s tasting menu.
The grilled tuna five spices, with crushed avocado and crispy shallots, hit all the right notes, with a balance of spice and soft-to-crispy textures, and the Brittany blue lobster with hazelnut butter was another tasty winner.
The grilled tuna five spices, with crushed avocado and crispy shallots, hit all the right notes, with a balance of spice and soft-to-crispy textures
Both were presented in dark, wok-style dishes, which set off the colours of the ingredients beautifully.
Brittany blue lobster with hazelnut butter is another of L’Envol’s signature dishes.
The utensils also encompass the main design of the restaurant, with strokes of gold on white ceramics.
L'Envol’s grilled tuna five spices with crushed avocado and crispy shallots.
The main course was milk-fed veal fillet in tilleul and wasabi veal head, served with seasonal asparagus.
The veal was tender and delicious, but I was not a fan of the head because of the strong flavours.
The veal was tender and delicious, but I was not a fan of the veal head because of the strong flavours
Veal head is a French delicacy of cheeks, tongue and brain – the wasabi balances the flavours of the meat and, if you usually like this dish, then you will enjoy this one.
Strawberry roulade, with basil Chantilly and green apple sorbet, served at L’Envol
The strawberry roulade, with basil Chantilly and green apple sorbet, was a perfect ending to the meal, with the right amount of sweetness and tart, and with the roulade strawberry crisps providing the texture.
For the ultimate experience, the signature tasting menu of seven courses is HK$1,788 (US$230), but you can also choose the three-, four-, or five-course options, which include coffee and tea for HK$588, HK$698 and HK$798, respectively.