Dior Men's Winter 2019 collection
Source:
https://scmp.com/magazines/style/news-trends/article/3030882/style-edit-diors-winter-collection-delves-man-behind News & Trends
STYLE Edit: Dior’s winter collection delves into the man behind the brand
Artistic director Kim Jones seamlessly balances intermingling themes of femininity and masculinity within the collection, while weighing founder Christian Dior’s idiosyncrasies, obsessions and superstitions
Dior is the top French luxury goods company controlled and chaired by French business magnate Bernard Arnault, who also heads LVMH, the world’s largest luxury group.
Dior’s artistic director Kim Jones uses the men’s winter 2019 collection to continue with his exploration of the 72-year-old maison’s heritage, as well as an examination of Christian Dior, the man behind the house.
Most noticeably, the “tailleur oblique” cut – where coat panels wrap across buttons, discovered in Dior’s 1947 collection – is seen this winter as “the oblique, extrême”, with the panels of fabric draping to the floor.
The look also alludes to the haute couture method of moulage, where the fabric is draped directly on the form.
The silky asymmetric wrap of the tailleur oblique showcases the collection’s theme of intermingling femininity and masculinity, seamlessly balanced by the British designer, who took over as artistic director from Kris Van Assche for Dior Homme in 2018.
Dior Men's Winter 2019 collection
Accessories continue in this theme, with the Dior saddle bag translated into the men’s wardrobe, created in nylon and leopard-pattern mink in a cross-body style and backpack.
Animalier also comes to the fore in the collection, with Monsieur Dior’s love for the panther print reinterpreted and then joined by new tiger and leopard prints in knitwear and intarsia furs. Laser-etched panther spots on leather shoe styles feature in the collection.
Dior Men's Winter 2019 collection
Reflective of Dior’s rich artistic background as a former gallerist, Jones collaborated with the American artist Raymond Pettibon, whose work was popularised during California’s punk rock scene in the 1980s.
Curated as well as specially-created pieces by Pettibon are seen on print, knit, jacquard and hand-embroidery. Pettibon draws from classical references but maintains his own subversive, symbolic iconography – as seen in his abstract interpretation of the Mona Lisa; or in the armoured-vest with a pair of sequinned eyes and the words, “With their own light and lash I have drawn them.”
Dior Men’s Winter 2019 collection
Pettibon’s spray-painted version of Dior’s favourite animal print – in this edition, dubbed “Punk Panthere” – appears on clothes and accessories.
The punk influence continues in jewellery created by Dior Homme’s new jewellery designer, Yoon Ahn. The 41-year-old, who founded the ready-to-wear label “Ambush”, debuted for Dior Homme in the Spring Summer 2019 collection.
For this season, Anh explores the relationship between jewellery and everyday objects, like her offering of the Dior CD emblem as the fastening on a safety pin. In her own exploration of Monsieur Dior, Anh looks at Dior’s idiosyncrasies, his personal obsessions and superstitions, through the creation of amulets and pieces resembling charms.