Film director Luca Guadagnino created a film for Salvatore Ferragamo that taps into the personal story of the designer.
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https://scmp.com/magazines/style/news-trends/article/3108633/style-edit-how-alfred-hitchcock-classics-vertigo-and News & Trends
STYLE Edit: How Alfred Hitchcock classics Vertigo and The Birds inspired Salvatore Ferragamo’s spring/summer 2021 campaign launch
The Italian luxury brand also unveils a new premier customisation programme for its famous men’s shoe, the Tramezza, only available to the most discerning gents at 20 stores worldwide
Film director Luca Guadagnino created a film for Salvatore Ferragamo that taps into the personal story of the designer. Photos: Salvatore Ferragamo
The new generation of fashion consumers is harder than ever to please. We demand beauty and quality, we require drama and a backstory. We want narratives of suggestion and intrigue, exceptional viewing and buying experiences.
Brands have revamped their approaches to sate these appetites, which has produced beautifully intricate speciality collections and fashion week performances that rival Broadway and the West End. No detail is too small – from hand stitching and the exact materials selected, to the emotional stories that influence the designer’s creations.
The brand kickstarted their season with a cinematic evocation of their entire women’s and men’s spring/summer 2021 line, presented at Milan’s historic Rotonda della Besana.
The show opens with a film by the great Italian film director Luca Guadagnino, an homage to three classic Hitchcock films that have inspired the season’s collection – The Birds, Marnie and Vertigo – as well as to the city of Milan itself.
This film taps into the personal story of the designer – Ferragamo did early work for the movie industry in Los Angeles in the 1920s, finding success in Hollywood by opening a shop for repairs and made-to-measure shoes for nearly a decade, before returning to Italy.
Salvatore Ferragamo's women’s creative director Paul Andrew felt that Guadagnino had a rich understanding of the cornerstones that are so important to Ferragamo and the creative team.
Guadagnino was identified early on by women’s creative director Paul Andrew as a filmmaker who had a rich understanding of not only the mise-en-scène that Hitchcock’s film influenced, but also the cornerstones that are so important to Ferragamo and the creative team. Guadagino’s film I Am Love, reminded Andrew of Hitchcock’s focus on the meaning of gesture and evocation of atmosphere.
“Luca deeply understands our values of craft and design: this encouraged me to propose our collaboration for the presentation of this collection. Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2021 is heavily influenced by the Technicolor vibrancy of some of my favourite Alfred Hitchcock classics, Vertigo and The Birds. To my delight Luca agreed to help evoke that by directing this film, in Technicolor, for Salvatore Ferragamo,” he says.
The Tramezza line is now completely customisable.
The movie was shot in Milan and is available to the public worldwide on Ferragamo’s digital channels to coincide with the collection’s launch in the city.
For those inspired by the film who want to be similarly swept up in the creation of their personal style, it’s worth checking out the new, premier customisation programme for the brand’s famous men’s shoe, the Tramezza – available in only 20 select Ferragamo stores worldwide. This is the shoe for the client who knows with complete certainty what they want, and is searching for a unique, couture piece that will set them apart from the crowd.
The Tramezza has a rich history to draw from. No two pairs are alike, with each involving 160 phases to produce. Master crafters, bolstered from a century-long commitment to craftsmanship, guide every stage of production, combining tech and high craft with tradition and couture fashion. A key part of their effort is the addition of “something in the middle”, Tramezza in Italian – a thick layer of leather used between the insole and sole itself instead of the more usual cork.
Crocodiles rock? Those looking to really stand out can opt for one of a range of exotic leathers.
Around that “middle”, customers choose from five different styles, from a classic Derby to a Moccasin or a double monkstrap. A wonderful selection of leathers – betis calf, suede, crocodile, the softest crocodile nabuk and lizard – provide the raw material which you can then order up in one of nine coloured models, titled Rouge Ferragamo, Ambre, Africa, Stone, Black, Blue Marine, Dark Blue, Nebbiolo and Truffle.
With two different buckle finishes in antique gold or graphite, the client’s initials can be inserted in micro studs or they can choose to have the Gancini brand logo, a sun, a heart, the infinity symbol, or star monogrammed.
Each shoe is finished with the customer’s name handwritten inside, and dedicated packaging to make each pair a significant, special experience.