Asian jewellery designers sparkle on red carpet alongside titans Bulgari, Chanel and Cartier

In the vibrant sphere of upscale designer jewellery, there are some household international names with impressive heritage that have continued their market dominance, while a growing number of independent designers, many from Asia, are captivating clients with their unconventional creations.

In every era, there are designers who push the envelope by advancing distinctive styles. One is Cartier – a brand that is synonymous with its iconic Tutti Frutti designs and the Panthère series.

As the high jewellery purveyor to the ultra-rich jet set and celebrities, generations of European royals and India’s maharajas, Cartier’s pieces have been influenced by the design elements of diverse cultures.

Some are highly experimental in style, to satisfy the individualistic preferences and tastes of its exclusive clientele.

In the 1920s, Louis Cartier sourced carved rubies, emeralds and sapphires from India that eventually inspired him to make the Tutti Frutti series, says Yvonne Chu, acting head of department, jewellery, at Sotheby’s Asia.

This helped set the trend for top-end jewellers enriching their artistic expression with diverse cultural references. The approach has had a profound influence on successive generations of designers.

“We have continued to see this design influence from India and it’s not just in Cartier now,” Chu says, adding that some contemporary jewellers, such as India’s Viren Bhagat, are sought-after internationally.

In October 2017, in Hong Kong, Sotheby’s sold a ring with the Maniraja ruby and diamonds with a distinctive Indian aesthetic for HK$81.7 million (US$10.4 million).

Taking inspiration from diverse sources, high-end jewellery designers sometimes blur the line between art and luxury adornment.

Collaboration between jewellery designers and artists always ignites creative sparks, leading to the appearance of some iconic collections, says Paul Redmayne-Mourad, head of sales, jewellery, at Bonham’s Hong Kong.

Legendary couturier Gabrielle Coco Chanel collaborated with her muse/lover, the artist Paul Iribe, to create the one-off high-jewellery Comète collection in 1932, he notes.

“The designs were cutting-edge. They successfully broadened the appeal of high jewellery to a wider audience.”

Apart from artistic expression, technical advances can lead to designs that were hitherto impossible.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ patented Mystery Set – in which gemstones were set in such a way that the metal prongs were invisible – was groundbreaking.

Although the technique has been extensively copied by jewellers around the world ever since its 1933 launch, only Van Cleef & Arpels can call pieces made with this technique Mystery Set, Chu says.

Coupled with the designs, impeccable craftsmanship often serves to showcase gemstones at their best.

Bulgari’s necklaces and bracelets are finished with unparalleled workmanship. With excellent articulation incorporated in the pieces, the brand’s necklaces follow every contour of the neck while the bracelets hug the wrist effortlessly, Redmayne-Mourad observes.

“Few high jewellers can achieve this level of craftsmanship.”

Chu says Bulgari has enjoyed a revival of consumer interest, particularly for its iconic Serpenti series launched in the 1970s.

The appearance of actress and fashion influencer Charlize Theron wearing a Serpenti necklace on the red carpet at this year’s Oscars ceremony has helped propel Bulgari back into the limelight, she adds.

While Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Bulgari focus on artistic designs, Graff and Harry Winston are two brands that are distinctive in their use of “best of the best” diamonds and coloured gemstones.

“Both Harry Winston and Graff put the gemstones at the forefront … Pieces by Harry Winston feature superb craftsmanship.

“For instance, the lattice bracelets designed by late head designer Ambaji Shinde feature perfect articulation and incredible fluidity. They are just like water in your hand,” Redmayne-Mourad says.

“Harry Winston and Graff cater to clients who like to buy top-grade diamonds and gemstones as part of their collections, and perhaps as a form of displaying their wealth,” Chu adds.

Large houses have their sets of widely recognised styles and aesthetics, and often work within certain parameters.

This may not be the concern of independent high jewellery designers. The past decade has seen the emergence of talent, particularly from Asia, including Viren Bhagat, Cindy Chao, Anna Hu and Wallace Chan.

They work with unconventional materials to create imaginative pieces that experiment with shapes and colour, often allowing for mixing and matching.

“They are trendsetters,” Chu says. “Chan started creating jewellery in titanium, which makes large pieces, such as brooches and earrings, extremely light and wearable.

“We have begun to see the usage of titanium in less expensive jewellery, too, or even fashion accessories. These Asian contemporary designers are making their mark worldwide. Their pieces are worn on the red carpet and are sought after by celebrities worldwide.”

Redmayne-Mourad feels the exclusivity and individualistic styles of independent designers appeal to Asian consumers. “When a lady wears a piece by an up-and-coming designer to an event, it’s highly likely she is the only one wearing such a design.”