Advertisement

From the Wall to the Water: talking Chinese politics and dodging IS in Afghanistan

  • Enamoured by the tale of Gan Ying, an ancient Chinese explorer who set out to contact the Roman Empire, William Han decided to follow in his path
  • Han’s journey led him from Hong Kong to Italy, via Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Iran and Greece. Here is the third excerpt from his upcoming book

Reading Time:8 minutes
Why you can trust SCMP
Herat, Afghanistan. Photo: William Han

In the summer of 2015, I left the United States. After growing up in Taiwan and New Zealand, I went to America to study before working in New York City. But in the end, I was unable to secure my permanent residency through a Green Card.

Advertisement

As the prospect of my exile drew nearer, I correspondingly grew fascinated with a story I heard even as a child: in AD97, during the Eastern Han dynasty, China sent an explorer and envoy westward along the Silk Road to locate and to make contact with the Roman Empire.

His name was Gan Ying. He had been a veteran of China’s wars against the Huns under the famous General Ban Chao. And he almost – not quite – succeeded in meeting the Romans.

He was an Asian man who almost reached the heart of the ancient Western world, Rome. I am an Asian man who almost got to stay in the heart of the modern Western world, New York City.

Part 1: Retracing the Old Silk Road to meet the Uygurs in Kashgar

I conceived of the idea to travel along Gan Ying’s path, as recorded in that ancient text of Chinese history, the Hou Han Shu. I studied where he might have gone.

Advertisement

I began in Hong Kong. The journey then took me through parts of China, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Turkey, and finally to Greece and Italy.

Advertisement