Singapore’s Violet Oon food culture appropriation dispute shows importance of a name

The Peranakan restaurant helmed by a celebrity chef unveiled a set meal that led to charges of cultural appropriation

It apologised for failing to make clear the significance of ‘nasi ambeng’, which originated in Java, Indonesia

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Published: 1:36pm, 5 Jun 2020Updated: 2:29pm, 5 Jun 2020

New dishes launched by celebrated Peranakan restaurant Violet Oon are usually received with great fanfare, but the Singapore eatery’s recent announcement of a new set meal meant for four to share was instead met with ire. The point of contention? Its name.

“Nyonya Nasi Ambeng Trays” was what the restaurant called its assortment of dishes – various meats, vegetables and a sambal belacan condiment accompanied by blue pea flower rice. It advertised the trays on Facebook and Instagram, and soon the criticisms of cultural appropriation poured in.

“Nasi ambeng is of Javanese origin and traditionally eaten during religious ceremonies as a communal activity. It has deep cultural significance and slapping ‘Nyonya’ on this (and then profiting off my culture) is NOT okay,” wrote food writer and editor Azimin Saini on his Instagram account.

Azimin was not the only one calling the restaurant out. Complainants said they felt their heritage had been “stolen” by the restaurant suggesting the dish was Nyonya – referring to a style of cuisine that weaves together Chinese and Malay ingredients and recipes – because the dish originated from Java in Indonesia and had cultural significance for the Malay community.

A screengrab of an Instagram post by Azimin Saini reacting to the dish. Photo: Instagram

Adam, a Singaporean Malay with Javanese origins who declined to use his real name citing work reasons, said he found it offensive that the restaurant would “take something Malay or Javanese and then brand it as Nyonya”.