The battle over basmati rice: why India and Pakistan may both claim the trademark
- The fragrant rice is a staple in Indian cooking and has historically been grown in the Himalayan foothills, but a dispute has been bubbling over
- Pakistan complained after India applied for EU rights to use the term, but analysts say it should be a joint claim as basmati is common heritage
At an Indian restaurant in Amsterdam, Peter Hoffman, a German who works in logistics in the Netherlands, looks forward to his weekly meal. He orders yellow dal (lentils), fragrant, steamed basmati rice and aloo jeera (potato curry) – comfort food at its best.
“I just love the steamed basmati rice which is so fragrant and tastes divine with a simple yellow dal-though there are fancier dishes that one can have, this simple food appeals to me every time,” he says.
Little known to him, the long grain rice on his plate has travelled a long way and has a rich history, cultivated and nurtured only in a particular region of two Asian countries.
It is loved for its nutty fragrance, taste and fluffy texture, and is a staple in Indian cooking and restaurants around the world serving Indian food, as well as in the Middle East and Iran. The rice is used by professional chefs and home cooks for everything from special biryanis at celebrations and weddings to simple steamed rice with lentils.
“Long grain, good quality basmati rice not only makes biryani authentic, but also adds a unique flair to dishes like kadhi chawal [rice and a yogurt curry], rajma chawal [beans and rice] and chole chawal [chickpeas gravy and rice]. As a chef I am always trying to get better varieties from the market,” says Delhi-based executive chef Ashish Bhasin.