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Indonesia
This Week in AsiaSociety

‘I’m possessed by ancient Chinese spirits’: The Indonesian model turned medium

Fashion model by day, spirit medium by night, Arifin walks a tightrope between modernity and tradition. His father is Buddhist, his mother Muslim, his sister Catholic. Together, they reflect Indonesia’s motto: Unity in Diversity

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Arifin Kurniawan is a fashion model by day. Photo: Muhammad Fadli
Karim Raslan

Arifin Kurniawan towers over his 55-year-old father’s prostrate figure. With his hand placed firmly on the older man’s head, the blond-haired son barks out instructions in Hokkien.

Only moments before, the Chinese-Indonesian, 21, had cut his tongue deliberately with a sword – using the blood to write Chinese characters on rice paper. Bathed in an eerie red light, with statues of countless deities lining the walls and the air filled with chanting, the Fat Cu Kung shrine is Arifin’s domain tonight.

Surrounded by kneeling adherents, he strokes what would appear to be a chest-length beard imperiously.

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But on a normal day, the young man doesn’t speak Hokkien or even write Chinese. Neither does he have a beard.

Arifin, possessed by the spirit of the Monkey King, Sun Wukong, gives out joss sticks to adherents. Photo: Muhammad Fadli
Arifin, possessed by the spirit of the Monkey King, Sun Wukong, gives out joss sticks to adherents. Photo: Muhammad Fadli
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You see, by day, Arifin is a fashion model. But come the night time, he is a spirit medium and that evening, he was possessed by Guan Gong, a deity based on a historical general called Guan Yu who lived in the tumultuous “Three Kingdoms” era of ancient China. As part of a ritual blessing, Guan Gong (popular with both police and triads because of his unwavering loyalty and courage) entered his body.

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