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Where Instagramers and Taliban play in Afghanistan

Ishkashim is a bright spot in Afghanistan’s long-suffering tourism industry as it attracts those seeking superb selfies. And it’s perfectly safe – just ask the locals

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A local man on a donkey on the road between the Tajik border and Ishkashim. Photo: Edward Cavanough

“I ’m just crossing over to get a picture!” Tomas, a Czech Instagramer, proclaims as he forces me to take his photo at the Afghan border.

He’s one of hundreds of Westerners who will cross the remote Ishkashim border, separating Tajikistan and Afghanistan, this summer in search of adventure, untamed wilderness – and selfies.

Ishkashim is a small district in Afghanistan’s far northeast Badakhshan province that serves as the gateway to the famed Wakhan Valley – home to some of the world’s most remote communities and best trekking.

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Wakhan has historically courted only the most extreme travellers. That is changing, as day trippers and more seasoned travellers seek out a taste of Afghanistan in one of the few parts of the country where their safety is all but guaranteed.

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Open-door policy

Like many tourists trawling Tajikistan’s Pamir Highway, the temptation to cross into Afghanistan is too great. I picked up my tourist visa in Khorog, Tajikistan – a three-hour drive from the border crossing – and set off to explore what has been widely called the country’s safest, most accessible corner.

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