Grand Hill Taiwanese restaurant review: Tsim Sha Tsui eatery does traditional dishes right

  • Oyster omelette and three cup chicken are must-try dishes
  • Relaxed atmosphere makes it a great place for morning dim sum as well
Ginny Wong |

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The three-cup chicken (HK$148) at Grand Hill Taiwanese Restaurant.

Grand Hill Taiwanese Restaurant
Cheung Lee Commercial Building, 25 Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

Grub: Taiwanese and Chinese food
Vibe: Strangely, for a place serving Taiwanese food, the setting is very “family Chinese restaurant”.

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Your parents or grandparents would not look out of place here on a Saturday morning – which is probably why you can also order traditional dim sum dishes like har gau and siu mai. Depending on the time of day you rock up, it could be entirely dead (like when we went), or packed with families.

Who to take: Your immediate family when you want Taiwanese food, but older relatives if you want more familiar comfort food. This is probably not the best place to go with your mates, especially if you know you’re going to get a little rowdy, but it really is pretty good for family gatherings.

What’s hot: Service here is very good – the staff are happy to offer suggestions if you are struggling with what to choose, and they will tell you which dishes are most popular. The three-cup chicken (HK$148) is packed with flavour – the chicken is not deboned, though, if that’s an issue for you. We would order the marinated mince pork rice (HK$28) and throw it into the chicken pot before you eat it – you might get a few funny looks, but the combination elevates the flavours of both dishes.

The oyster omelette (HK$98) was nicely herby, but could have done with being a little crispier. The Tainan dan-tsu noodles (HK$28) were pleasantly springy (but could have come with a wider range of toppings to keep them from being slightly boring).

What’s not: While the flavour of the steamed bun with cream custard (HK$38) was about on par with any other salted egg yolk bun, we were disappointed to find our runny centres weren’t runny and had split – making the custard grainy and oily.

The sweet potato congee (HK$14) was, sadly, not great either. It reminded us of the sort you might be fed by your parents when you were ill – but it was also devoid of any flavour. While we enjoyed the difference in texture between the congee and the sweet potato, it just wasn’t exciting enough to consider it a dish worth ordering again.

Cost: Dim sum dishes are HK$22- HK$50. Mains are HK$14-HK$680 (for the shark’s fin soup – which, for the sake of sharks, we certainly would not advise you order!). Desserts are HK$30-HK$188 and drinks are HK$18-HK$38. There is a tea charge of HK$16 per person.