In a world where large luxury groups are increasingly acquiring independent brands, Breitling is holding onto to its roots. Since investing in its own manufacture in 2010, the brand has been building up its arsenal of in-house movements to add to its signature looks.
The new Transocean Chronographe Unitime, powered by the new calibre B05, is the embodiment of this spirit, says Breitling vice-president Jean-Paul Girardin. 'We're really in the pilot's seat with this model,' he says. 'I think it sends a strong signal that we are not only able to produce movements, but we also have the technical capability and know-how inside Breitling.'
The Unitime is the first world-time watch in the Breitling collection since the Unitime 1951. The self-winding B05, which offers a 70-hour power reserve, builds on the base movement B01 that was introduced in 2009. With Breitling's strong positioning for chronograph watches, the new Unitime also sports the chronograph feature and a date window.
A double disc allows simultaneous indication of time at all 24 time zones, all adjustable through the crown. The 46mm novelty comes in steel or red gold with a black or polar white dial.
'We don't want to add functions and complications just for the sake of adding them,' Girardin says. 'At the end of the day, we want to benefit our customers. So we have very useful functions, but they're very easy to use. That's really the way Breitling is making use of its innovation.'
Another novelty for travellers is the Chronomat 44 GMT. The name of the timepiece refers to the size of 44mm, reduced from the usual 47mm, and the GMT function for two additional time zones: one on the dial and one on the rotating bezel.