Fare The usual dai pai dong fare with an emphasis on seafood and pigeon.
Ambience Set in a strip of restaurants running parallel to the main road and dwarfed by industrial buildings, the Fo Tan food market makes an unusual spot for a group meal. Tak Kee, at the southern end of the market, is loud and lively and partly open to the elements, so visit in good weather.
Cost HK$100-HK$200 per person including tea and a few bottles of beer.
Who to bring A big group of friends or family happy to sit on plastic stools, wipe their fingers on toilet paper and use the public loos.
Turn-ons The typhoon shelter crab (below) would make a fierce contender for Hong Kong's best: the meat was perfectly cooked and the chilli garlic was chopped fine enough so it melted in the mouth and was seasoned just right. The eggplant and minced pork, which was served in an attractive weighty stone dish, was heavy on the preserved fish, but we liked it. The other dishes we ordered - a variety of fried rice, noodles and vegetable dishes - were enjoyable but not noteworthy. There is an English menu.
Turn-offs No fault of the restaurant, but the evening we visited a drunken businessman at the next table fell backwards off his chair while his compatriot threw up on the floor when making a dash for the pavement outside. Service is slow and perfunctory. We left the razor clams uneaten as they were less than fresh.
Drinks Teas, soft drinks and beer.
Shan Mei Street, Fo Tan, 26949786