The best of beer pairing

BRITAIN
Pubs, and the beer served therein, are vital to the British character. Like drinking tea, shedding colonies and singing God Save the Queen, having a pint or two down at the local is a kind of patriotic duty.

An English publican has good reason to look with bemusement at the craze for craft beers in America. Small-batch brews made with local produce have long been the norm in rural pubs across Britain. British beer is beloved for its balance - eschewing the in-your-face flavours of American hop-fests, and Belgium's fruit bombs, British beers are all about precision and drinkability. Pints are often enjoyed in a pub with a bit of pub grub. But bangers and mash and pies have been overtaken by cuisine from all over the world.

Since 1995, The Globe has been Hong Kong's most beloved gastro-pub. "Growing up in the north of England, everything was punctuated with beer," says Toby Cooper, owner of The Globe and chairman of the Hong Kong Craft Brew Association. "My mail quite often went to the pub because people knew where I drank but might not know where I lived."

To start, Cooper recommends a smoked haddock salad with avocado and green beans (HK$78), served with a Theakston Lightfoot (HK$80), a bright and citrusy pale ale from Masham in North Yorkshire.

For something more traditionally British, Cooper recommends a scotch egg served with piccalilli, paired with an Admiral's Ale (HK$80) from St Austell brewery in Cornwall. The company describes it as the "Christmas pudding of beers" and the toothsome brew warrants the comparison. Paired with the egg it makes for a steadying, substantial treat.

The third pairing is Welsh rarebit served with an Oakham Ales Green Devil IPA (HK$84). It is hoppy and sharp and perfect with the cheddar cheese and beer sauce.