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Restaurant review: Banh Mi Bakery, Kowloon City - Viet food via New York

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Signature dish: pâté bahn mi and Trung Nguyen Legendee Gold coffee. Photo: May Tse
Vanessa Yung

Most food lovers associate Kowloon City with hotpot, the beef patties at Islam Food and Thai or Chiu Chow cuisine. In recent years, the area with low-rise walk-ups has welcomed a number of cosy cafes which reflect the laid-back vibe and offer more international dining options. The latest one is Banh Mi Bakery.

The three-month-old Vietnamese cafe is flanked by a noisy cha chaan teng and a car repair shop. But once inside, the pastel theme and plant decor are soothing and relaxing.

Be prepared to wait in a queue, especially during weekends, as the staff do not rush through their work and guests are welcome to linger.

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Opened by two sisters, the shop is a dream come true as it embraces their two biggest passions — cooking and Vietnamese food. They went to school in New York, where they regularly visited Banh Mi Saigon in Manhattan's Chinatown.

After failing to find similar flavours in Hong Kong, they decided to start their own shop after a spell in Vietnam to learn the essence of the cuisine. Be sure to try their signature dish — pâté banh mi (HK$58). The silky pork liver mince, made in-house using a recipe they learned in Vietnam, is smooth and has pronounced flavours. It is served with two types of cha lua (pork sausage) — one with pig ears for crunchiness — and some refreshing pickled radish and carrot. All the ingredients combine well in a satisfying balance of taste and texture.

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Other recommendations include the fragrant grilled turmeric chicken, which comes with rice or cold noodles, and a selection of colourful rice rolls (HK$58-HK$88).

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