Advertisement
Advertisement

About time: a mixed bag

Abid Rahman

As people who know me well will attest, I'm not one for whingeing. Well, not whingeing in person. OK, I might sneak in a whinge every now and then. Alright, I whinge! What do you want? Blood? Anyway, ordinarily I refrain from whingeing in print, but today I feel like a whinge against the really restrictive nature of writing a watch column, particularly one that focuses on a particular theme. You see, I yearn for the chance to write about three watches I happen to like and to hell with a theme linking them all. So this week, in a fit of pique, I'm railing against the tyranny of the "themes" system and going rogue with a free-form jazz column that talks about three great watches that have very little in common with each other. So there.

First we go to Breguet, a brand I've never hidden my love for. Indeed, people wonder if I'm on its payroll or it has slipped me a timepiece, such is my continuous and effusive praise. Alas, much like my high school crush, Breguet barely even knows I exist, as it realises how good its watches are and the cult-like following they foster. The Classique Moonphase 7787 Enamel (above) is quite simply a breathtakingly beautiful watch. Everything from the enamel dial, the clean and classic design motifs, the rose-gold case and the rich brown leather strap make this the perfect dress watch. What sets Breguet apart, though, are the details, including the cursive logo, the Breguet blue hands and the wonderfully detailed moon-phase and moon-age indicator. The 39mm case size is also a great reminder of a time when watches didn't need to be huge and flashy to make an impact. But this model is not all nods to traditional watchmaking; inside is a cutting-edge movement that uses silicon technology. The 7787 isn't a new watch per se, it's been around for a while, but if you're in the market for a dress watch that says you have taste and appreciate design and heritage, well, look no further. The Breguet Classique Moonphase 7787 Enamel is priced at HK$236,900.

Next is the Breitling Transocean 38 (above left), a watch that would be a gem on its own but is even more loveable because it doesn't really look like a Breitling. Modern pilot watches and chronographs are so awash with dials, indications and scale rings that just looking at them can give you a headache, and indeed Breitling has been guilty of such crimes. With the Transocean 38, however, the company is reaching back into its glorious archive to create a retro-inspired watch that is remarkable for how "quiet" it looks. The restrained design is helped in no small measure by the reduced case size, the name pointing to a 38mm steel case. Features are completely stripped out with only a date window and the small seconds subdial at the six o'clock position taking up space on the black dial. Though this watch looks simple, it's ready for action with water resistance of 100 metres and a Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres-certified movement. The other highlight is the steel mesh strap, something you don't see often these days. The Breitling Transocean 38 is priced at HK$47,360.

Finally, we have another brand that is a pet love of mine, H. Moser & Cie. Its wonderful Endeavour Dual Time Special Edition (above right) is another watch that does a lot by doing very little in terms of design. It maintains Moser's reputation for clean styles influenced both by classic watchmaking and a big dollop of modern industrial design. The modern comes from the 40.8mm case, made of Grade 5 titanium, a matte anthracite dial and black carbon-coated alligator leather strap. The classic comes from the simple dial arrangement, with only a small seconds subdial. This is a dual-time watch so the red hand is an unfussy reminder of the time in the second time zone. Inside is an in-house HMC 346 movement. The Endeavour Dual Time Special Edition is limited to 20 pieces and priced at HK$230,000.

 

Post