My husband and I got into a discussion (read: argument) about ais cendol, which he ordered at a restaurant serving Malaysian and Singaporean cuisine. He called it a drink - and, indeed, it was listed under beverages on the menu.

I politely pointed out (read: corrected) that while the coconut milk makes it liquid-y, it's far too heavy to be a drink. It contains copious amounts of gula melaka (palm sugar, I usually ask for less), cendol (short strands of pandan-flavoured mung bean flour jelly), ais (ice) and - frequently - small red beans (I have tasted it with kidney beans, which are too large and coarse).

Whether you have it as a drink or a dessert, ais cendol is refreshing on a hot, humid day. It's attractive, too, because of the layers of gula melaka, cendol and beans which sink to the bottom of the glass or bowl. All the ingredients are stirred together before being consumed.

Ais cendol is not difficult to make but there are nuances that differentiate a good one from a great one. Because it's diluted by the ice, the coconut milk needs to be rich, and fresh is better than canned. Most people buy the cendol (I've never attempted to make it). Look for types that are not too rubbery or garishly coloured. And if you're adding red beans, use the small, tender azuki type, rather than kidney beans.