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Professor Augustinus Bader (right) and the skincare brand’s CEO Charles Rosier discuss how they have made a retinol serum “without the drawbacks”.

A retinol serum ‘without the drawbacks’: Augustinus Bader founders on their skincare product’s success, and why they liken themselves to drug dealers

  • Professor Augustinus Bader and Augustinus Bader CEO Charles Rosier explain what makes the skincare brand’s retinol serum different from other retinol products
  • ‘It’s the good side of retinol without the drawbacks,’ says Rosier, who adds that the next step for them is ‘to get the brand more widely used in Asia-Pacific’
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On a recent visit to Hong Kong, Professor Augustinus Bader and Augustinus Bader CEO Charles Rosier, co-founders of the skincare brand, explained why its retinol serum, combined with its proprietary technology TFC8, will not make your skin burn.

What makes Augustinus Bader’s The Retinol Serum different from other retinol products?

Augustinus Bader: “The good thing about this product is that we have an extremely low dose of retinol, just 0.6 per cent, much less than a conventional product. A high concentration has a lot of side effects and can dry out the skin.”

Charles Rosier: “We’re not just an ingredient-packaged brand like all the others. If there is no TFC8, you should go to a pharmacy and get coconut oil or carrot oil.

“We use an ingredient that has been proven to work in clinical trials – retinol – combined with a patented proprietary set of ingredients that, together, also have clinically proven results.

Augustinus Bader’s The Retinol Serum has an extremely low dose of retinol compared to other products.

“The great thing about Augustinus and his discovery of TFC8 is that because it activates natural communication processes, it’s not antagonised by other ingredients.

“If you do TFC8 with vitamin C, lipids or other ingredients, it doesn’t harm the effect of the TFC8. What we discovered with vitamin A [retinol] is that to achieve full potency, you don’t need a high dose.”

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Would you still recommend using the product at night and avoiding sun exposure?

Rosier: “Yes, it’s still more prudent but nobody had a reaction during clinical trials. Consumers and people that have tried it in the team or outside the team have had zero reaction or redness.

“It’s impossible to peel with this. That’s the advantage of retinol combined with TFC8 – there’s no reaction. It’s the good side of retinol without the drawbacks.”

The Retinol Serum has retinol combined with Augustinus Bader’s proprietary technology, TFC8.

What do you think about ingestible retinol? Would you recommend it?

Bader: “If you have retinol as a chemical, it’s different from eating carrots [also a source of vitamin A or retinol]. There’s no toxicity in carrots so that’s what I would recommend.

“Don’t eat retinol because it has such a high concentration that embryotoxicity can occur. There are medications you can take [containing retinol] but doctors are not allowed to prescribe them to everyone.

“If people have severe acne, these medicines dry out the skin and dry up the acne, but when you stop using them it may come back. Here, we found a way to lower the concentration, so it’s not a symptomatic treatment but physiological.”

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But you still make other ingestible supplements.

Bader: “Food does have an important role in wellness – we should all eat good food and get enough sleep. We make wellness food supplements for stem cells. The skin has a barrier and we have been repairing the barrier and bringing it to the cellular micro environment.

“Not everyone has access to good food. Our food has become super industrialised and is often artificially created, so it’s good to think about what you eat. If your food is not good it makes sense to supplement your diet.”

People who have tried Augustinus Bader’s retinol serum have had zero reaction or redness.
Rosier: “Our production cost for the skin supplements is US$45. At best, we break even. In most cases, it’s loss-making for us but it shows that we are driven by making the product work. For example, our skin supplements have the highest concentration of probiotics.

“If we had reduced the concentration or used a slightly lower quality, it would work economically but we didn’t do that. So what drives us is more the efficacy of the clinical trial, which we don’t compromise on, and research.

“The issue with supplements is probably 95 per cent of those being made out there will never be assimilated by your body, they will go directly in and out. Some of them could actually accumulate in your body in a negative way, so absorption of the ingredients is key.

“For our skin supplements, the research and the production was driven by making sure what you ingest is being used and assimilated.”

 

What’s next for Augustinus Bader in Asia?

Rosier: “To get the brand more widely used in Asia-Pacific because once we get more people, they become ambassadors. If you’re a brand whose product doesn’t deliver then you need to always pay to recruit new customers. For us, it’s kind of a one-time investment.

“In 2018, we were a company of seven people, with a brand name that nobody could pronounce and only two creams, The Rich Cream and The Cream. Word of mouth contributed. That’s why, for example, in the United States we have a 90 per cent repurchasing rate, which is much higher than the industry average.

“The funny phrase I use sometimes is that we’re a bit like drug dealers. You give the first fix and then … the name of the game for us is to bring more people to the brand because we know that once they try it, we keep them.”

Augustinus Bader is available in Hong Kong at Lane Crawford.

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