Italian winemaker tackles climate change and bureaucracy head on at family-run vineyard in Piedmont
- Alberto, the young oenologist behind Italy’s 600-year-old Cordero di Montezemolo winery, talks about the challenges facing winemakers today
Alberto Cordero di Montezemolo is the face of a family-run winery in Piedmont, Italy, that traces its roots back to the 14th century. He says vineyard ownership in Italy can be highly fragmented because, in the 19th century, couples often had eight or nine children and plots became increasingly subdivided by inheritance. The Cordero family, however, kept their vineyards intact.
Their 51-hectare estate is located in La Morra and grape varieties planted include arneis, dolcetto, chardonnay, barbera and nebbiolo.
Born in 1981, Cordero runs the business with his father, Giovanni, and sister, Elena, and says he “makes wine with a passion”.
Three Piedmont wines to drink with Alba’s white truffles
“It is wrong to approach wines from a perspective of traditional versus modern style,” he says, adding that he instead strives to make them “as pure as possible”.
One challenge that Cordero can’t avoid is climate change. However, the oenologist says, “It is not happening so fast that we need to change varieties” by replanting the vineyards. Instead, they have changed viticultural methods to retain a similar wine style. For example, in the past, as much sunlight as possible was required, to ripen the grapes. Now, canopy management techniques are needed to protect the grapes from sunburn.
Another challenge that irks Cordero is bureaucracy in the industry.
“Making wine is fairly straightforward,” he says. “But if you want to do something different you are blocked by rules.”
Cordero di Montezemolo Arneis 2017, Langhe, HK$198
This wine is all about fruit and freshness. Stainless-steel fermentation at low temperatures of 13 to 15 degrees Celsius with no secondary fermentation. Lees stirring for four months to increase textural richness.
Peach, apricot and floral notes on the nose. Medium-bodied, easy drinking with fresh acidity and a slight phenolic touch on the finish.
Cordero di Montezemolo Nebbiolo 2017, Langhe, HK$248
Cordero says the Langhe wine is “a representation of the grape. It is young, fresh. Simple in that you can recognise the grape variety”. Nebbiolo grapes are sourced from vines less than 10 years oldfrom Barolo villages.
The winemaking aims to bring out the primary fruit component. Fermentation in stainless steel at lower temperatures with less extraction and no oak contact.
Ripe, juicy cherries and strawberries. Light tannins balanced with crisp acidity and ripe fruit. Medium long finish.
Cordero di Montezemolo Monfalletto 1996, Barolo, HK$1,078
Cordero says the Monfalletto, the winery’s flagship wine, with its softer tannins, has always been approachable, a profile he attributes to the terroir. Vines are 15 to 50 years old. The soils are clay-based and rich in magnesium oxide, manganese and minerals.
Aged in oak for 22 months in barrels of various sizes, from 225-litre barriques to 3,000-litre barrels. Wines are further aged in the bottle for a year before release. This is a wine that will improve with age and keep for decades.
Leather and truffle savouriness showing developed character. Elegant with well-integrated tannins and high fruit intensity. Complex and fine. Still youthful and will keep for another 10 years at least.
The wines are available from Cuvées.
