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The century-old teak house that acts as the centrepiece of 137 Pillars House Chiang Mai, in northern Thailand. Photo: 137 Pillars House

137 Pillars House Chiang Mai, a luxury hotel where the aesthetics of a bygone era meet modern style

  • With the number of pillars denoting a Thai teak house’s status, this boutique property is something quite special
  • The ancient walled city is within walking distance and each of the 30 suites is located in its own free-standing teak house
Thailand
What is this place? Across the Ping river from Chiang Mai’s old walled city, in northern Thailand, this luxury boutique hotel is steeped in history, evoking the bygone era of colonial timber barons.

The hotel’s 30 suites are in stand-alone buildings set among tranquil, leafy grounds with a century-old teak house as a centrepiece.

This was built by the British-owned Borneo Company, which controlled the region’s lumber concessions from the 1880s until the 1950s. Its first occupant was Louis Leonowens, whose mother, Anna, was the English governess immortalised in the film The King and I (1956). The teak house is where today’s guests can find the hotel restaurant, bar, lounge, library and gym.

What’s with the name? A traditional Thai teak house is supported by pillars, and the more one has, the higher its status. This structure was stabilised with 137, so it was something of a mansion in its day.

What are the suites like? Sweet; a fusion of colonial elegance and northern Lanna Thai style. High-quality wood is used in the decor and fittings, which harmonise with the natural surroundings and the property’s historical significance. Each has a Victorian claw-foot bath (bath salts included) and a second shower in a walled, private garden. Every room comes with butler service. He won’t hover annoyingly but will swap WhatsApp numbers with you, so you can call on him anytime.

Each suite exudes colonial elegance infused with traditional northern Lanna Thai style. Photo: 137 Pillars House

What can I do if I want to chill all day? You could stroll around the tropical grounds, past trees that date back to the days of the timber barons. Or relax with a novel on the sofa or rocking chair on your spacious, private verandah. There’s also a pool, a spa and an air-conditioned gym in which to while away the hours.

Any other reason to choose this hotel? It’s within walking distance of the old walled city, with its glittering temples and buzzing night market. But if you’ve been to Thailand before and have had your fill of wats and touts, 137 Pillars offers, to use the latest buzzword in travel, experiences.

On the full-day “Tales and Trails of the Teak Wallahs” excursion, a knowledge­able guide regales guests with stories of the “gentlemen foresters” who harvested teak for export. Incredibly, the logs were transported by river; they would be launched into the Ping and take many months to arrive in Bangkok for onward distribution. The trip includes a visit to another, more modest teak house, where Leonowens once lived, in nearby Lampang province.

The hotel pool. Photo: 137 Pillars House

Alternatively, be a mahout for a day at Patara Farm, a sanctuary where you will be assigned your own elephant. (Some elephant farms in Thailand treat their animals cruelly but Patara is not one of them.) After feeding it, ride the pachyderm through the jungle to the river, where you need to roll up your sleeves, jump in and give your new friend a good scrub.

Is it the only 137 Pillars property? No. A newer property stands in the upscale Prompong district of the Thai capital. The high-rise 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok is infused with the same colonial-modern design DNA. A stand-out feature is an infinity pool with a panoramic view of the city. The experiences here include the recently launched “Private Art Tour by 137 Pillars” programme, whereby guests can take a deep dive into the Bangkok art scene with “guru” Panu Boonpipattanapong.

What does a suite at the Chiang Mai hotel cost? A stay in a standard Rajah Brooke suite in the high season, with breakfast, costs 25,000 baht (HK$6,450) plus VAT, service charge and government taxes (18.7 per cent combined). Prices go down after February 29.

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