Lawrence remained an island of calm in the heaving mass of cameras that eventually caused security to divert guests. She showed her engagement ring from New York art gallerist Cooke Maroney as photographers vied for shots in the sweltering room.

Here are some highlights of the first full day of fall/winter 2019 collections at Paris Fashion Week:

Dior’s gang

A gargantuan art installation covered the runway walls, spelling out words like “feminists” as Dior’s first female designer, Chiuri, took the theme to the sassy styles of British “Teddy Girls”, a rebellious breed of British teens during the 1950s.

It was new territory.

Monochrome gingham, red check, full skirts, big black leather belts, pointy shoes and cut-off bobby socks all evoked the girls who formed part of a largely forgotten subculture that took its name from the Edwardian-style “Teddy” jacket donned by adherents.

The Teddy Girls rebelled against austerity after the second world war and replaced it with messy exuberance in their clothes. It’s laudable that Chiuri sought inspiration in “the queens of a ravaged landscape” who were “impertinent characters”, according to the description in the programme notes.

For fall/winter, slightly awkward bell hat-hybrids led the eye down to Edwardian coats, their exaggerated lapels touched on a trend seen in Milan. Pleated or buttoned-down, full skirts evoked the end of wartime rationing.

The collection was far from glamorous. Intentionally so.

Saint Laurent’s Opium

The sultry vibe of late couturier Yves Saint Laurent, harking from the launch of his perfume “Opium” in 1977 and after, was in the air at Tuesday’s evening show by Anthony Vaccarello.

Dark and hazy lighting lit up male and female models in retro ensembles, styled with large shades, trilby hats or disco skull caps.

The show opened with oversized 1980s power-shoulders on some statement tailored coats that set the autumn-winter display’s graphic tone.

But Vaccarello’s signature style is bare skin. Nipples and chest were exposed in a black silk gown with scooped bust, or on a YSL archive peaked-shoulder tuxedo jacket in white with cummerbund. Micro shorts and miniskirts were in abundance.

Reverentially, Vaccarello delved into the house archives and returned with the Asian musing that inspired Saint Laurent’s successful, and controversial, perfume from the late 1970s. This era was apparent in some accomplished archive pieces, such as a shimmering jacket, that recreated the red and gold embroideries associated with this heyday.

A star-studded front row featuring Kate Moss, Matt Dillon, Lindsay Lohan, Felicity Jones and Catherine Deneuve, applauded enthusiastically.

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